The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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Satirical expression in Thom Browne's fashion design

톰 브라운 패션디자인에 나타난 풍자적 표현

  • Kim, Yeonjoo (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) ;
  • Lee, Younhee (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
  • 김연주 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공) ;
  • 이연희 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공)
  • Received : 2021.02.14
  • Accepted : 2021.04.06
  • Published : 2021.04.30
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Abstract

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

Keywords

References

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