DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on the Formative Characteristics of Vyshyvanka Embroidery Expressed in Apparel Elements

의복구성요소에 표현된 비쉬반카 자수의 조형적 특성 연구

  • Song, A-ra (Dept. of Textile & Fashion Design, Mokwon University) ;
  • Lee, Jin-Hee (Dept. of Fashion Design & Apparel Industry, Wonkwang University)
  • 송아라 (목원대학교 섬유패션디자인과) ;
  • 이진희 (원광대학교 패션디자인산업학과)
  • Received : 2021.12.28
  • Accepted : 2022.02.08
  • Published : 2022.02.28

Abstract

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

이 논문은 2020학년도 원광대학교의 교비지원에 의해 수행됨

References

  1. 송아라. (2017). 엠브로이더리를 활용한 패션디자인 연구. 홍익대학교 대학원 박사학위논문.
  2. 안상훈. (2013). 우크라이나 민속학 동향에 관한 고찰-1991년 우크라이나 독립이후를 중심으로. 슬라브학보, 28(2), 105-132.
  3. 조은경. (1992). 구소련의 민족의상에 관한 연구동부 슬라브족(러시아, 우크라이나, 백러시아)을 중심으로- 홍익대학교 대학원 석사학위논문.
  4. 최수빈, 조우현. (2001). 19세기~20세기 초 동 슬라브 민족 전통혼례복의 고찰. 한국의류학회지, 25(2), 275-286.
  5. 최수빈, 조우현. (2004). 우크라이나 민족복식의 조형성. 한국의상디자인학회지, 6(2), 63-76.
  6. 홍석우. (2008). 코자크와 오렌지 혁명의 우크라이나. 서울: 한국외국어대학교출판부.
  7. 홍석우. (2017). 우크라이나의 문화상징: 자수와 루슈니키(Rushnyky). 동유럽발칸연구, 41(4), 195-214.
  8. Patricia Rieff Anawalt. (2009). 세계복식문화사 (한국복식학회 역), 경기: (주)위즈덤하우스. (원저 2007 출판)
  9. Свйонтек І. (2016). Гуцульські вишивки Карпа т. Українська:"Апріорі" Львів
  10. Лідія Бебешко. (2019). Українські вишиванки: орнаменти, композиції, Книжковий Клуб, Ук раїнська: Клуб Сімейного Дозвілля.
  11. 구글. ヴィシヴァンカ. 자료검색일 2019.3.3-4.20, 자료출처 http://www.google.com/
  12. 구글. Vyshyvanka. 자료검색일 2019.3.3-2021.12.9, 자료출처 http://www.google.com/
  13. 두산 백과사전. 우크라이나. 자료검색일 2019.3.3-3.20, 자료출처 http://www.encyber.com/index.html
  14. 비타킨. vitakin. 자료검색일 2019.3.3-4.20, 자료출처 http://www.vitakin.net/index.html
  15. 주 우크라이나 대한민국 대사관. 자료검색일 2019.3.3-3.20, 자료출처 https://overseas.mofa.go.kr/ua-ko/index.do
  16. 핀터레스트. Vyshyvanka. 자료검색일 2019.3.3.-2021.12.30, 자료출처 http://www.pinterest.co.kr
  17. Wikipedia. Vyshyvanka. 자료검색일 2019.3.3-3.20, 자료출처 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vyshyvanka#High_fashion