Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Developing an Observation System for Body Movements and Clothes

몸의 움직임과 의상의 관찰체계 연구

  • Soyung Im (Dept. of Fashion and Textiles, Seoul National University) ;
  • Jisoo Ha (Dept. of Fashion and Textiles, Seoul National University)
  • Received : 2023.02.01
  • Accepted : 2023.05.26
  • Published : 2023.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Unlike a still body in a photograph, the concept of time applies to a moving body wearing clothes. Clothes change shape according to movement, and multidimensional formative observation elements are required to perceive this. Thus, the purpose of this research is to develop a system for observing body movements and clothing. This experimental study was designed based on embodiment research. The first stage of the study derived body movement and clothing observation items from theory. In the second stage, 11 fashion personnel participated in experimental research to verify the observation items and identify those that needed correction or supplementation. The results showed that body movement and clothing observation items can be classified as follows: large moving bodies, moving clothes, body and clothes movement, and body and clothes space. The observation system for body movement and clothes presented can be used to construct the formation of moving clothes.

Keywords

References

  1. Adikari, S. B., Ganegoda, N. C., Meegama, R. G., & Wanniarachchi, I. L. (2020). Applicability of a single depth sensor in real-time 3D clothes simulation: Augmented reality virtual dressing room using kinect sensor. Advances in HumanComputer Interaction, 2020, 1-10. https://doi.org/10.1155/2020/1314598
  2. Alaoui, S. F., Caramiaux, B., Serrano, M., & Bevilacqua, F. (2012, June 11). Movement qualities as interaction modality [Paper presentation]. Proceedings of the designing interactive systems Conference. Newcastle Upon Tyne, United Kingdom. https://doi.org/10.1145/2317956.2318071
  3. Bagander, L. (2017). Body of movement: (in)forming movement [Unpublished doctoral dissertation]. Hogskolan i Boras.
  4. Bagander, L. (2020). Enabling (e)motion. Dance articulated. Dance Articulated, 6(1), 25-44. https://doi.org/10.5324/da.v6i1.3637
  5. Bartenieff, I. (1980). Body movement: Coping with the environment. Gordon and Breach Science Publish.
  6. Spatz, B. (2017). Embodied research: A methodology. A Journal of Performance Studies, 13(2).
  7. Bernardet, U., Fdili Alaoui, S., Studd, K., Bradley, K., Pasquier, P., & Schiphorst, T. (2019). Assessing the reliability of the Laban movement analysis system. PLoS ONE, 14(6), e0218179. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0218179
  8. Berelson, B. (1952). Content analysis in communication research. Free Press.
  9. Block, B. A. (1998). Keep them in their "place": applying laban's notion of kinesphere and place in teaching scientific concepts. Journal of Physical Education, Recreation & Dance, 69(3), 43-47. https://doi.org/10.1080/07303084.1998.10605092
  10. Bugg, J. (2009). Fashion at the interface: Designer-wearer-viewer, Fashion Practice, 1(1), 9-31. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693809X418676
  11. Daly, A. (1988). Movement analysis: Piecing together the puzzle. TDR, 32(4), 40-52. https://doi.org/10.2307/1145888
  12. Delong, M. R. (1987). The way we look: A framework for visual analysis of dress. Iowa State University Press.
  13. Dean, S. E. (2012). Somatic movement and costume: A practical, investigative project. Journal of Dance & Somatic Practices, 3(1-2), 167-182. https://doi.org/10.1386/jdsp.3.1-2.167_1
  14. Dean, S. E. (2014). Somatic costumesTM: Traversing multi-sensorial landscapes. Scene, 2(1-2), 81-87. https://doi.org/10.1386/scene.2.1-2.81_1
  15. Dean, S. E. (2016). Where is the body in the costume design process? Studies in Costume & Performance, 1(1), 97-111. https://doi.org/10.1386/scp.1.1.97_1
  16. Schlaich, J., & DuPont, B. (Eds.). (1988). Dance: The art of production (2nd ed.). Princeton Book Company.
  17. Groff, E. (1995). Laban movement analysis: Charting the ineffable domain of human movement. Journal of Physical Education, Recreation & Dance, 66(2), 27-30. https://doi.org/10.1080/07303084.1995.10607038
  18. Gross, M., Crane, E., & Fredrickson, B. (2010). Methodology for assessing bodily expression of emotion. Journal of Nonverbal Behavior, 34(4), 223-248. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10919-010-0094-x
  19. Hu, P., Ho, E. S., Aslam, N., Komura, T., & Shum, H. P. (2019). A new method to evaluate the dynamic air gap thickness and garment sliding of virtual clothes during walking. Textile Research Journal, 89(19-20), 4148-4161. https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517519826930
  20. Jung, W. J. (2013). A study on dance costumes based on 'moving body; Focused on Laban Movement Analysis [Unpublished master's thesis]. Ewha Womans University.
  21. Kang, S. B. (2004). Analysis of Korean dance in terms of the LMA. The Korean Research Journal of Dance Documentation, 6, 1-29.
  22. Kim, C.-W., & Yoon, H.-J. (2009). A review and application of qualitative research methodology in tourism. Journal of Tourism Sciences, 33(1), 11-30.
  23. Kim, I. G. (1994). A study on the design of Neo-Carmen costume. [Unpublished master's thesis]. Ewha Womans University.
  24. Kim, H. G. (2004). The study of costume design for "the Heaven", a Korean creative dance work [Unpublished master's thesis]. Ewha Womans University.
  25. Kim, J. E. (1993). A study on the effective expression of dance costume [Unpublished master's thesis]. Ewha Womans University.
  26. Kim, J.-L. (2013). A study on choreological properties of Rudolf Laban's 'Movement Space': Focusing on space harmony theory. The Korean Research Journal of Dance Documentation, 31, 21-43.
  27. Kim, M. J. (2008). A study on Korean creative dance costume design for dance performance: Focusing on 'Beauty & The Beast' [Unpublished master's thesis]. Dankook University.
  28. Kim, S. J. (2003). A study on the formality post-modern dance costume [Unpublished master's thesis]. Sookmyung Women's University.
  29. Kim, S. J. (2017). A study on expressive characteristics of fashion images in fashion films [Unpublished doctoral dissertation]. Seoul National University.
  30. Kim, Y.-J. (2015). A study on Korean creative dance costume design: Hwang-Jini's poetry [Unpublished master's thesis]. Kyungsung University.
  31. Larsen, U. M. (2016). Dressing wearing: Movement directed by dress-dress directed by movement [Unpublished doctoral dissertation]. Hogskolan i Boras.
  32. Lee, H.-M., Lee, C.-G., & Yang, J.-Y. (2018). Examining the effect of a mega-event using content analysis: The case of the Yeosu Expo. International Journal of Tourism and Hospitality Research, 32(1), 19-31. https://doi.org/10.21298/IJTHR.2018.01.32.1.19
  33. Levy, J. A., & Duke, M. P. (2003). The use of Laban movement analysis in the study of personality, emotional state and movement style: An exploratory investigation of the veridicality of "body language". Individual Differences Research, 1(1), 39-63.
  34. Ma, S. J. (2020). The spatial analysis of taepyeongmu's movement: An analysis using Rudolf von Laban's theory of space harmony. Asian Dance Journal, 56, 75-95. https://doi.org/10.26861/sddh.2020.56.75
  35. National Institute of Korean Language. (n.d.). 체현 [Embodied]. In Standard Korean Dictionary. https://stdict.korean.go.kr/search/searchResult.do?pageSize=10&searchKeyword=%EC%B2%B4%ED%98%84
  36. Pantouvaki, S. (2013). Dance costumes on display: Reflections and practice. In C. Morgan, & F. Malva (Eds.), Activating the inanimate: Visual vocabularies of performance practice (pp. 109-121). Brill. https://doi.org/10.1163/9781848881211_012
  37. Prinsloo, T.-T., Munro, M., & Broodryk, C. (2019). The efficacy of Laban movement analysis as a framework for observing and analysing space in Rosas danst Rosas. Research in Dance Education, 20(3), 331-344. https://doi.org/10.1080/14647893.2019.1620719
  38. Potter, M. (1990). Designed for dance: The costumes of leon bakst and the art of Isadora Duncan. Dance Chronicle, 13(2), 154-169. https://doi.org/10.1080/01472529008569034
  39. Fensham, R. (2015). Designing for movement: Dance costumes, art schools and natural movement in the early twentieth century. Journal of Design History, 28(4), 348-367. https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epv017
  40. Robinson, T. (2019). Attaining poise: A movement-based lens exploring embodiment in fashion. Fashion Theory, 23(3), 441-458. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1603876
  41. Sandoval, M. C. (1985). Movement and world view: Applying Lavan movement analysis and Magoroh Maruyama's paradigms to the comanche dance and lifestyle data in three Tewa Pueblos (New Mexico) (Publication No. 8520453) [Master's thesis, University of California]. ProQuest Dissertations Publishing.
  42. Sampson, E. (2018). The cleaved garment: The maker, the wearer and the "me and not me" of fashion practice. Fashion Theory, 22(3), 341-360. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2017.1366187
  43. Schwartz, P. (1995). Laban movement analysis: Theory and application. Journal of Physical Education, Recreation & Dance, 66(2), 25.
  44. Seixas, M. M. (2017). Mapping the fashion film festival landscape: Fashion, film, and the digital age. NECSUS. European Journal of Media Studies, 6(2), 181-188. https://necsus-ejms.org/mapping-the-fashion-film-festival-landscape-fashion-film-and-the-digital-age/
  45. Seo, K. E. (2019). A properties of the aesthetic on Taekyun: Focusing on LMA. Asian Dance Journal, 52, 135-157. https://doi.org/10.26861/sddh.2019.52.135
  46. Trimingham, M., & Barbieri, D. (2016). War, revolution and design: Exploring pedagogy, practice-based research and costume for performance through the Russian avant-garde theatre. Studies in Theatre and Performance, 36(3), 269-280. https://doi.org/10.1080/14682761.2016.1191310
  47. Yun, H., & Ko, E. (2021). Comparative analysis of seven digital fashion weeks. Journal of Fashion Business, 25(3), 36-50. https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2021.25.3.36
  48. Yun, Y. J. (2002). Astudy on the formative characteristic of dance costume design [Unpublished master's thesis]. Pusan National University.
  49. Zacks, J. M., & Tversky, B. (2001). Event structure in perception and conception. Psychological Bulletin, 127(1), 3-21. https://doi.org/10.1037/0033-2909.127.1.3