Chinese herbs have been used for a long period of time and less side effects than synthesized chemical drugs. Therefore, using Chinese herbs as natural additives in cosmetics becomes popular in recent years. The methanol extracts of Scutellariae Radix, Lithospermi Radix, Lonicerae Flos, Andrographitis. Herba, Angelicae Dahuricae Radix, Ligustici Rhizoma et Radix, Hedyotis Diffusae Herba, Isatidis Folium, Magnoliae Liliflorae Flos, Forsythiae Fructus, Anmarrhenae Rhizoma, Spirodelae Herba, Gardeniae Fructus, Sophorae Flavescentis Radix, Coptidis Rhizoma, Prunellae Spica, Equiseti Hiemalis Herba, Gentianae Radix, Moutan Radicis Cortex, Fraxini Cortex, Lycii Radicis Cortex, Violae Herba, Lophatheri Herba, Matricariae chamomillae Flos, Taraxaci Herba and Scutellariae Barbatae Herba are used to test the efficiency of inhibiting acne pathogens. Twenty-six Chinese herbs are extracted by methanol, and then condensed to dried powder. These extracts are divided into water-soluble part and DMSO soluble part. These two type solutions are tested for the effect on acne pathogens by paper disc diffusion method. The results show that the substances of water soluble part which are Coptidis Rhizoma, Moutan Radicis Cortex, Scutellariae Barbatae Herba have medium to high activity of inhibiting acne pathogents, and the substances of DMSO soluble part which are Coptidis Rhizoma, Ligustici Rhizoma et Radix, Sophorae Flavescentis Radix, Moutan Radicis Cortex, Scutellariae Radix, Scutellariae Barbatae Herba also have medium to high activity of inhibiting acne pathogens. Using Chinese herbs as natural additives in cosmetics is convenience and valuable application in cosmetceutical research and development. Therefore, it is worth that re-investigation and find out the potential of Chinese herbs being use in cosmetics.

L-camitine ($\beta$ -hydroxy-${\gamma}$ -trimethyl-ammoniumbutyric acid) is a small water-soluble molecule important in mammalian fat metabolism. It is essential for the normal oxidation of fatty acids by the mitochondria, and is involved in the trans-esterification and excretion of acyl-CoA esters. In this paper, to investigate the relationship between aging and L-camitine, we investigated the effects of in vitro MMP inhibition and activity and expression of UVA-induced MMP 1 in human skin fibroblasts. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-l were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. ELISA (enzyme linked immuno sorbent assay), gelatin-substrate zymography, and RT-PCR ELISA techniques were used for the effects of L-camitine on MMP expression and activity, MMP mRNA expression in UVA irradiated fibroblast. L-camitine inhibited the activities of MMP-l in a dose-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$/ values calculated from semi-log plots were 2.45mM, and L-carnitine showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. Also, UVA induced MMP expression was reduced 40% by treated with L-carnitine, and MMP-l mRNA expression was reduced dose-dependent manner. Therefore L-carnitine was able to significantly inhibition the MMP activity, regulation of MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. All these results suggest that L-carnitine may be useful as new anti-aging cofactor for protection against UVA induced MMP expression and activity.

Korean Ginseng is a medicinal herb which grows naturally in korea. an ancient country situated in north-eastern Asia. Its medical use was already well known to herb doctors in this region about five thousand years ago since the effectiveness of korean ginseng has been recognized through practical use for a long time. Korean Ginseng has always been regarded as a devine cure. The name "Ginseng" can be found in various medicinal books. many of which were written as early as B.C. 100. In the records of many chinese medical books. dating from the inception of publishing, it was noted that Korean Ginseng was of the highest level of quality. Korean Ginseng originally grew in the mountains of korea. However, this wild Korean Ginseng(js called SANSAM) could not meet the ever-increasing demands. and from the 16th century. it has been cultivated on farms for mass processing and supplying in korea(js called INSAM). It was already recognized in korea a long time ago(B.C. 57 - A.D. 668) that Korean Ginseng possessed the qualities of panacea, tonic and rejuvenator, and had other medicinal properties as well. The effectiveness of Korean Ginseng is widely recognized among south-eastern Asians as well as Chinese. As its effect has been proved scientifically. Korean Ginseng is now becoming the ginseng for all human beings in the world. Korean ginseng is differently called according to processing method. Dried thing is Insam(white ginseng), boiled or steamed is Hongsam(red ginseng). 장뇌삼(long headed ginseng) is artificially grown in the mountain no in field for a long time. So the body is thin and some long. but ingredients are concentrated. Korean wild ginseng(SANSAM) is rare in these days but we developed cosmetic ingredient. The scientific name of Korean Ginseng is Panax Ginseng. It has acknowledge as a natural mysterious cure among the notheastern peoples. because of its broad medicinal application. The origin of the word" Panax" derived from panacea. a Greek word meaning cure-all. According to the classification method of herb medicines in the Chinese medicinal book. "God-Farmer Materia Medica(A.D. 483-496) korean Ginseng was described as the superlative drug: panacea. tonic and rejuvenator. We studied skin immunological effect. collagen synthesis. cell growth and whitening effect of SANSAM extract. IN cosmetics.. SANSAM extract had skin fibroblast cell growth effect. recover damaged skin in the sun and protect fine wrinkle. Also. In hair product.. inhibits hairless, white hair.its hairless, white hair.

UV irradiation on a skin brings about the qualitative and quantitative alterations of the extracellular matrix. Repeated-UV irradiation suppressed the synthesis of collagen and activated the expression of the matrix metalloprotease (MMP). In this paper, on the purpose of development of novel anti-aging agents from natural sources, effects of several natural products on in vitro MMP-1 activity and UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) culture were studied. We measured MMP-1 activities by fluorescence assay using gelatin as substrates. As a result, the extract of Dicentra spectabilis, and flower buds of Tussilago farfara showed strong inhibitory effect. Among them, the extract of flower buds of Tussilago fartara and Dicentra spectabilis inhibited MMP-1 activity by 92% and 87% at 0.05% (w/v). And UVA induced MMP-1 expression were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in HDF culture. The extract of flower buds of Tussilago farfara and Dicentra spectabilis suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by similar level of Vitamin C 200$\mu$M at 0.1% (w/v). These results suggest that the extract of Dicentra spectabilis, and flower buds of Tussilago farfara effectively prevent skin from the UV-induced photoaging. So the extracts are thought to have potential as effective raw materials for anti-aging cosmetics.

$\alpha$-MSH plays an important role in UV induced melanogenesis in human skin. It is believed to exert its effects by binding to $\alpha$-MSH receptor that in turn activates adenylate cyclase and increase melanocyte proliferation, dendricity and melanogenesis. In this study, we evaluated plant extracts showing the inhibitory activity on $\alpha$-MSH induced melanogenesis. The Cnidium officinale extracts showed high inhibitory activity on $\alpha$-MSH induced melanogenesis. It ($50{\mu}\textrm{g}$/ml) inhibited the melanin synthesis activated by $\alpha$-MSH in B-16 melanoma cells. Also, we isolated active compound from C. officinale extracts by Mass spectrophotometer, HPLC. It was identified as Senkyunolide A. It showed the same inhibitory activity as C. officinale extracts at the lower concentration. Finally, Senkyunolide A from Cnidium officinale extracts could playas $\alpha$-MSH antagonist and be used as a strong ingredient for skin whitening cosmetics.

BMB-CF has been constituted of purified fractions of Scutellaria baicalensis, which has medicinal effect such as anti-microbial. anti-inflammation. fever remedy. anti-oxidation. and anti-aging effect etc.. It has been used in traditional medicine formula from long time ago in the east Asia. It is constituted of the active flavone ingredients such as baicalin. baicalein. DTF(Di-methyl Tetra -hydroxy Flavone), wogonin. wogonoside. $\beta$- Sitosterol. etc.. General purified fractions of Scutellaria baicalensis has the high portion of the baicalin which has the problem of narrow antimicrobial spectrum and compatibility against cosmetic formula. Now. we has been develop the new purificaton process of Scutellaria baicalensis that has the high rate of DTF content, which is improved in antimicrobial activity and cosmetics compatibility. So. we have assure that it is the potent preservative against various cosmetic formula.

To investigate the effect of cholesterol in liposome on the stability of incorporated retinol, the physico-chemical experiments for various amounts of cholesterol-containing liposomes were performed. Liposome with retinol containing cholesterol was prepared as multilamella vesicles(MLVs) by dehydration/rehydration method. The incorporation efficiency of retinol into liposome was maximized as 99.31 % at 50:50 (phosphatidylcholine/cholesterol) at pH 9. The stability of incorporated retinol at low storage temperature was enhanced with increasing cholesterol content than at high storage temperature. For example, incorporated retinol in liposome at glycine buffer(pH 9} was degraded slowly during storage at 4. The degradation of retinol in liposomes was slower at pH 9 than at pH 7. These results supported that cholesterol in liposome increased largely the stability of incorporated retinol.

Endothelins secreted from keratinocytes are intrinsic madiators for human melanocytes in UVB-induced pigmentation. Antimelanogenic ingredient, 1,2-Ο-diferulylglycerol(SM709) isolated from bamboo extract inhibited the melanin synthesis of Bl6F10 melanoma cells by 62%. To understand the cellular mechanism of antimelanogenic activity of SM709 in human melanocytes, the effects of SM709 on the ET-l-induced $Ca^{2+}$ mobilization were investigated. ET-l receptors in human melanocytes were characterized by using specific antagonist and found that ET-l increased intracellular $Ca^{2+}$ by activating ET-B receptor. SM709 completely blocked the ET-l-induced intracellular $Ca^{2+}$ increase and its inhibitory effect showed dose- and time- dependent manners. To investigate the role of SM709 on intracellular $Ca^{2+}$ store, when the $Ca^{2+}$ store was partially depleted by thapsigargin; a specific inhibitor of ER-type $Ca^{2+}$-ATPase, caffeine-induced $Ca^{2+}$ mobilization did not changed in the presence or absence of SM709, suggesting that SM709 has no effect on the $Ca^{2+}$ store. It is known that LPA receptor and P$_2$ receptor are linked to InsP$_3$ second messenger system. When these receptors in melanocytes were activated by LPA and ATP, the intracellular $Ca^{2+}$ signaling was observed even in the presence of SM709. From the above results, it can be suggested that SM709 has an antimelanogenic activity by antagonizing the ET-B receptor, resulting in subsequent intracellular $Ca^{2+}$ signaling, in UV induced pigmentation.nduced pigmentation.

It was demonstrated that Transactivating transcriptional activator(TAT) protein from HIV-1 shown to enter cells when added to the surrounding media. TAT peptide chemically attached to various proteins was able to deliver these proteins to various cell and even in tissues in mice with high levels in heart and spleen. In this study, the tripeptide GKH(Glycine-Lysine-Histidine) derived from Parathyroid hormone (PTH), which was known as lipolytic peptide, is attached to 9-poly Lysine(TAT) to be used as a cosmetic ingredient for slimming products. When Glycerol release, expressed as extracellular glycerol concentration, is lipolysis index, TAT-GKH at $10^{-5}$mo1/L induces approximately 41.5% maximal lipolytic effects in epididymal adipocytes isolated from rats, compared with basal lipolysis. Epididymal adipose tissues of male rats is assessed ex vivo by microdialysis. Probes are perfused with Ringer solution in which increasing concentrations of TAT-GKH. The perfusion of TAT-GKH induces lipolytic effect. Penetration study showed that TAT-GKH efficiently elevates 36 times higher penetration into the excised hairless mice skin than GKH. in vivo study showed that TAT-GKH had a better effect upon the relative volume of eye bag after 28 days of application on twenty(+2) healthy female volunteers. It was identified that TAT-GKH increases penetration enhancement and lipolytic effects in both in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo.

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol, prunol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ON A are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepatoprotective, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. To clarify the effects of UA and ONA on skin barrier recovery, both flank skin of 8-12 weeks hairless mice were topically treated with samples (2mg/ml) after tape stripping, then measured recovery rate using TEWL on hairless mice. The recovery rate increased in UA and ONA treated groups at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p <0.05). For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/ml per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to Vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p<0.005). EM examination using Ru04 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA$\geq$UA>Vehicle). LM finding showed that stratum corneum was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>Vehicle). Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber increasing by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory experiments were also confirmed in vivo findings. This result suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only skin barrier but also collagen and elastic fibers. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve barrier function and pertinent agents for cosmetic applications.

We have developed a high performance powder, which has a quenching efficacy not only for short-chain fatty acids and amines, but also for vinyl ketones (l-octen-3-one, cis-l,5-octadien-3-one), newly found as other key compounds in axillary malodor. By investigating various powders known to have a quenching efficacy, we finally developed a highly porous silica bead containing magnesium oxide. We found that the superior deodorant effect performed by this powder was the result of multiple effects due to both an excellent physical adsorption capability from its high porosity and a specific adsorption of vinyl ketones by magnesium in the powder. An antiperspirant formulation containing both this powder and a Morus alba extract showed good efficacy as a deodorant.

Reactive oxygen species are capable of damaging biomolecules such as lipids, proteins, and DNA, which can not only lead to various diseases, but also oxidative damage resulting aging. In our previous study, Cercis chinensis (Leguminosae) showed a potent antioxidant activity. Nineteen compounds were isolated through antioxidant activity-guided fractionation. The C. chinensis extract and some of the constituents exhibited a potent antioxidant activity on the free radicals and lipid peroxidation and a notable protective effect on the t-BuOOH induced oxidative damage. In vivo test of skin damage induced by UVB irradiation, the extract of C. chinensis and a constituent, piceatannol, exhibited a significant protective effect. The life-span of the HEK-N/F cells were extended by 1.21-2.12 fold as a result of the continuous administration of 3 $\mu\textrm{g}$/ml of the C. chinensis extract and the active constituents compared to that of the control. These observations were attributed to the inhibitory effect of the C. chinensis extract and its constituents on the age-dependent shortening of the telomere. Thus, C. chinensis was demonstrated to protect the skin cells against oxidative stress and inhibit thereby the cellular aging, followed by expectation as antiaging cosmetic ingredient.

Using GC/MS and GC/Olfactmetry analysis, we identified two vinyl ketones such as 1-Octen-3-one (OEO) and cis-1, 5-Octadien-3-one (ODO) as key materials in axillary odor. OEO and ODO showed a strong metallic odor and low odor threshold. These two materials were occurred from the reaction of unsaturated long fatty acids in lipids and the iron ion in our body's metabolism. Then, it was recognized that Morus alba (Japanese name, Kuwa) extract, one of the plant extract, showed a very good effect to control the generation of these vinyl ketones due to its remarkable anti-oxidization effects.

Previously, we reported that L-PCA enhanced blood circulation by modulating constitutive NO production. It was that L-PCA increased L-Arg uptake into endothelial cell, followed by the enhancement of NO production. Then we recommended the use of L-PCA for cosmetics, not only as humectants but also as enhancer of blood circulation. Since L-Arg is transported into endothelial cells by CAT (cationic amino acid transporter), it is expected that L-PCA also increase the uptake of basic amino acid, L-Lys. In this study, the uptakes of some amino acids into cells were evaluated by using 3H-labelled amino acid. Then we found the tendency that the uptake of L-Lys into endothelial cells was also enhanced by L-PCA. And the evident effect was observed in the epidermal fibroblasts, which had also CAT. Furthermore, it was found that the transportation of the other type of amino acids were not enhanced by L-PCA. That is to say, a famous moisturizer, L-PCA, has some effects on basic amino acid transport into cells.

Moisturizing the skin is one of the most important functions of skincare cosmetics, because water plays a significant role in keeping the skin healthy. There are various humectants including polyol (glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol), water-soluble polymers, and botanical extracts. It is well known that the increased amount of polyol in lotion for obtaining high moisturizing effect gives a sticky feeling to the skin. Therefore, a few humectants that can give high moisturizing effect without a sticky feeling for lotion formula is available. On the other hand, oil-based lipstick is well known to have a difficulty to contain a large amount of hydrophilic humectants, because the humectants is unable to be mixed well into oil-based lipsticks and give the lips a peculiar taste. There are newly developed humectants, polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether (EPDME) that can solve these problems describable above. EPDME is a random copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. EPDME gives a low sticky feeling with a high moisturizing effect when it is used in lotion. As a remarkable character, EPDME can show not only a preventing effect on rough and dry skin, but also a improving effect upon the use for 1-4 weeks. EPDME can show a synergistic effect with glycerin on preventing to rough and dry skin. Since EPDME can be dissolved in oil-based formulation and used as an ingredient of lipsticks, EPDME can give a moisturizing effect that allows lip to be healthy condition. EPDME can also give no peculiar taste even upon the use of a large amount. EPDME is a useful cosmetic ingredient that can show a good skin care effect in both water-based formula and oil-based formula. EPDME of which polarity can be controllable is expected to be used for various cosmetic applications in near future.

Research objective:To exactly evaluate their functions of kojic acid, arbutin and vitamin C as a whitening agent, we performed experiments to compare their abilities to inhibit melanin synthesis. Experimental methods and techniques: The effects of kojic acid, arbutin and vitamin C on cell viability and melanin synthesis were evaluated by the level of melanin content and the number of viable cells upon treatment of them.

To obtain effective and safe topical depigmenting agents, we synthesized hydroxybenzoates, alkoxybenzoates, and 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamate containing a thymol moiety and screened then for high-level inhibitory activity against melanin synthesis. Among them, 5-methyl-2-(methylethyl)phenyl (2Ε)-3-(3,4,5-trimethoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (Melasolv)$^{TM}$ 4h, showed the most potent depigmenting effect ($IC_{50}$/ = 10$\mu$M) with low cytotoxicity ($IC_{50}$/ = 200$\mu$M). To find the inhibition mechanism of our candidate, various in vitro tests were performed such as DPPH assay, tyrosinase activity in mushroom or in culture cell and expression of tyrosinase, TRP-l and TRP-2. The result of this study suggested that 4h inhibited melanin synthesis by reducing the expression of tyrosinase and TRP-l at the transcriptional level in melan-a melanocytes.s.

New pyranone derivative, 2-((3E)-4(2H, 3H, -benzo[3, 4-d] 1, 3-dioxolan-5-yl)-2-oxo-but-3-enyloxy)-5-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one (Seletinoid $G^{TM}$), was designed as a novel retinoid on the assumption that the pyranone ring may mimic the carboxylic acid moiety in retinoid structure. The enolic hydroxy of pyranone at five position was easily deprotonated to form an enolate. The role of enolate was similar to that of carboxylic acid. To evaluate the value of Seletinoid G as an anti-aging ingredient, various tests were performed for example inhibitory effect for MMP-l expression, anti-oxidative activity, procollagen synthesis in hairless mouse and primary skin irritation. The result of this study suggested that our new synthetic retinoid could be used as a safe material for anti-aging cosmetics.

Trimethylglycine, commonly named betaine, is the most simple amphoteric molecule. It is completely vegetal (1,2), as it is produced in the sugar industry by industrial chromatography of molasses. While abundantly used in foods and diet supplements, many interesting applications in cosmetics have recently been investigated, like its capability to increase the volume and stability of foams in surfactant solutions. For its special chemical structure (it is the internal salt of a weak acid and a strong alkali) trimethylglycine is a solvent and buffering agent for strong acids and Lewis' acids. It allows to improve the efficiency of $\alpha$- and $\beta$-hydroxy acids in increasing the physiological rate of epidermal cell renewal, while keeping a low skin-irritation level. In oral care cosmetics, it acts as a mucous membrane protectant (3). For its special water co-ordination capability, its solubilising power, polymer swelling capability, after-feel improvement in hair products, skin moisturization and elasticity enhancing properties, trimethylglycine provides unusual characteristics to many products intended for skin maintenance (4).(omitted)

Intact mammalian hair and wool fibres are multi-compartmental composite materials consisting of a sulphur-rich outer protective cuticle layer surrounding elongated, highly keratinized, cortex cells. The cortex cells themselves are made up of crystalline, filamentous, low-sulphur a-helical keratin molecules embedded in a matrix of highly cross-linked, globular high-sulphur keratins. It is the structurally organised and highly disulphide cross-linked nature of these materials that provides them with their remarkable mechanical properties. However these mechanical properties are sensitive to environmental conditions such as water content, temperature and chemical treatment and the importance of their ultra-structural arrangements to overall mechanical properties in different environments is still not fully understood.(omitted)

The heartwood extract of Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb., which contains a potent tyrosinase inhibitor oxyresveratrol, was evaluated for its melanin-reducing efficacy in both guinea pigs and human volunteers. After 4 week-daily application of the extract dissolved in propylene glycol to the back of guinea pigs, significant reduction in melanin content was detected, with the effect greater than 3% kojic acid and solvent propylene glycol (P < 0.05). The extract was subsequently tested in female volunteers (3 groups of 20 subjects) using a parallel clinical trial with self-control. The first group received the A. lakoocha solution in propylene glycol whereas the second and the third group respectively received 0.25% licorice extract and 3% kojic acid in the same solvent. The subject in each group twice daily applied the test solution on one arm whereas the remaining arm was applied with only propylene glycol (self-control) for 12 weeks. The A. lakoocha extract was found to be the most effective agent, giving the shortest onset of significant whitening after only 4 weeks of application (P < 0.05), followed by 3% kojic acid (8 weeks) and 0.25% licorice extract (10 weeks). The whitening effect also increased with time, with the highest extent observed with A. lakoocha at week 12. The in vitro antityrosinase activity of A. lakoocha extract decreased with time upon storage at room temperature but could be stabilized by a combination of several antioxidants. In conclusion, the heartwood extract of A. lakoocha appeared to have promising potential for use as an effective and economical skin-whitening agent.

Antioxidants have been used in cosmetic industry for treatment of aged skin and recently have been also introduced as additives in photoprotection products. In order to determine among the Brazilian botanical species presenting interesting antioxidant activities we have screened several extracts from plants from Rain and Amazonical Tropical Forests, as well as some endemic species, using both TBARs and DPPH methods. Extracts with antioxidant activities were found with Jacaranda caroba, Veloso DL, Spilanthes oleracea (Spilanthes acmella var. oleracea), Orbignya phalerata, Pothomorphe umbellata, Chiococca brachiata and Polypodium lepidopteris. Other extracts such as Camelia sinensis, Sambucus australis, Rosmarinus officinalis L. were also studied, and showed some antioxidant activity.

Recently we showed the prototype portable device for the determination of human skin moisture by using near infrared spectroscopy. In order to optimize the acquiring condition of NIR spectrum of skin and control the target information of water depending the site such as epidermis and dermis, skin depth profiling was investigated changing the distance between illuminations and receiving of radiation in the terminal of fiber probe. The colleted light information could be controlled by changing the distance of the fiber optic probes. It was confirmed that the longer distance we used, the deeper site from the skin surface we could get information from in this study. Four kinds of probes with distances such as 0.03 mm, 0.1 mm, 0.5 mm, and 1.0 mm were used. In addition, the gap size from 0.3 mm to 3.0 mm was studied to control the intensity of water absorbance effectively and to avoid saturation of water absorption. We also investigated the reference materials depending the reflectance ratio for water absorption not to be saturated because of the strong absorptivity of water. Furthermore, spectroscopic information regarding free water and bound water around 1850 nm was investigated by using the different distance of fiber optic probes. This study would be great help to control the spectroscopic information of water to be measured depending the site where water exists.

Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) molecule has been successfully encapsulated in biocompatible inorganic matrix in order for the cosmetic application such as superfacial fine line reduction. The encapsulation was realized through chemical reaction involving simultaneous formation of inorganic lattice and 1M giving rise to an 1M-inorganic nanohybrid (IAA-brid) which shows excellent storage stability and sustained releasing property of indole-3-acetic acid. The clinical efficacy of essence cream containing IAA-brid as anti-wrinkle formulation was also carefully evaluated by measuring the roughness of the skin replica before and after treatment. Upon administration of the cream on the eye-area, the fine-line is drastically reduced.

Type I (collagen) and procollagen are reduced in aged human skin. This reduction could result from increased degration by metalloproteinases and from reduced procollagen synthesis and skin collagenase is required for initiation of the degration of type I collagen. In the present study, we study on assay the collagen and collagenase in natural plants using the fibroblast human skin cell. We select the 15 kind of plants used to herbal and 4 kind of fraction(by methylene chloride, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, water). Among these extract, the ethyl acetate fraction from benincasa hispida/prunus persica, trichosanthes kiriowii, trogopterus xanthipes and methylene chloride fractions from benincasa hispida/prunus persica, torilis japonica and n-butanol fraction from cnidium officinale, chrysanthemum sibiricum were selected for further experiments as they exhibited distinctive amount of collagen compared to other natural extracts. These extracts were again subjected to collagenase assay test. Benincasa hispida/prunus persica extract was shown to have exellent collagen synthesis activity from result of the collagen assay test and the other extract was shown to have over 130% of collagen synthesis activity. But, in the study of collagenase assay test just only trogopterus xanthipes extract was shown to have collagenase inhibition.

The effects of N-acetylphytospingosine(NAPS), one of the phytospingosine derivatives, on melanogenesis of B 16F 1 0 mouse melanoma cell lines were investigated. We assessed the effect of NAPS on the depigmentation of B16F10 cells. The melanin content of cells was significantly reduced by NAPS. We examined the inhibitory effect of NAPS on tyrosinase activity using L-dopa as a substrate and the results showed that tyrosinase activity was inhibited in a does-dependent manner. The mRNA level of tyrosinase as well as that of tyrosinase related protein-l (TRP-l) and tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2) genes were not affected by NAPS based on a reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) assay. We also performed a Western blotting analysis using anti-tyrosinase antibody. It showed that there is no change in tyrosinase protein level after treatment of NAPS. These results suggest that the depigmenting mechanism of NAPS in B16F10 melanoma cells involves inhibition of melanosomal tyrosinase activity, rather than the mRNA expression or protein level of tyrosinase.

The effects of Lactic acid bacteria have been investigated on anti-tumor. cholesterol reduction in blood. promotion of immune and skin-beauty. We are focused on cosmeceutical activity of Lactic acid bacteria (LAB). Ml, which is found in Korean traditional food. Kimchi The LAB.Ml has been identified as Lactobacillus plantarum Ml and individually cultured with Soybean soup and Soybean-Curd whey, until the total acidity has been reached the highest. After then, cell-free extracts from Ml have been used for the following studies. We assessed the effect of Lactobacillus plantarum Ml on the depigmentation of B16FlO melanoma cell. The melanin content of cells was decreased with 1-3% of cultured extracts. The tyrosinase activity was reduced by cell-free extracts of Lactobacillus plantarum Ml. Anti-aging and anti-oxidative activity of Ml cultured extract was also studied in NIH-3T3 human fibroblast cells. It showed that induction of cell proliferation. collagen synthesis and free radical scavenging activity. Additional studies for anti-fungal and anti-acne activity were also detected on Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, respectively. These results suggest that cultured extract of Lactobacillun plantarum Ml would be used for cosmeceutical ingredients through multifunctional reaction on skin such as whitening, anti-wrinkle. anti-oxidation and anti-acnes.

There have been many kinds of hair styling sprays with various setting effects. Consumers have used strong setting effect hair sprays to get a long lasting hold. In recent years, however, more and more consumers have come to prefer a "soft ＆ natural" touch feeling, keeping the same long lasting hold. Nonetheless, the existing approaches to this feature could not respond to the consumers′ needs, since products lose the hold strength if the soft feeling is pursued, and vice versa. We have researched and developed a new products to attain a compatible feature with both long lasting hold and natural feeling. Then, we have developed a new multifunctional hair styling material "Poly Amino Acid Derivative (PAAD)." We have focused on the PAAD′s feature that highly diffuses onto a hair and makes thin and even layer on a hair, and have made trials and errors to improve holding strength. "P AAD" excellently makes hair memorize its curl shape which is as the same effect as existing ordinary acrylic resin. Further more, it leaves a soft and natural touch feeling on the hair. We have accomplished a new Poly Amino Acid Derivative with ambivalent features, "soft ＆ natural finish" and "long lasting hold ", and now we report about it.

Inositol and phytic acic extracted from rice bran were investigated for applying cosmetics. Skin lotions containing 0∼3.0wt% inositol and 0∼1.5wt% phytic acid were applied respectively, to the arm skins of 45 Asian women 20'-40's for 7 weeks. Improvement on moisture was evaluated. In addition, improvements on sebum, elasticity, and wrinkle were examined after applying placebo, Inositol and phytic acid-containing skin lotions for face, respectively. For 1.0 wt% inositol resulted in 19% increase of moisture. The wrinkle reduction and elasticity improved 12.4% and 17.0% on average, respectively. Applying 0.5wt% phytic acid resulted in 71.6% increase the moisture. Improvements on wrinkle and elasticity were 15.9% and 21.9% respectively. Applying inositol or phytic acid regardless of dry or oily, resulted in sebum value recovery to that of the normal skin after 2- 4 weeks. Inositol is inferior to phytic acid in improvenients of the skin, and phytic acid is not suitable to sensitive skin. So 0-0.5wt% of phytic acid were added to 1.0wt% inositol and similar experiments were carried out. In case of added 0.1wt% phytic acid, moisture increased 63.8% approximately. Improvements on elasticity and reduction on wrinkle were 17.2% and 17.4%, respectively. Both skin types were turned to normal skin type after 2 weeks. It could improve the skin condition when used inositol added phytic acid. The optimized concentration of phytic acid was 0.10wt% with 1.0wt% of inositol for synergic effect.

The nano capsulation of the ceramide was a technique that capsulated ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate at the mono-vesicle, so as to act the horny layer in skin. It was used 0.5-5.0 wt% of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.01~2.00 wt% of lysolecithin as the membrane-strengthen agents of the mono-vesicle, 5.0~10 wt% of propylene glycol and 5.0~10.0 wt% of ethyl alcohol made by high-pressure Microfluidizer. To enhance the moisturizing efficacy and treat an atopy skin, used ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate as the active ingredients, and it was made the nano-capsule that synthetic emulsifiers were free. The optimal condition of capsulation of nano ceramide was as follows. The conditions were 3 times at 1,000bar and 60-7$0^{\circ}C$. The particle size showed 63.1$\pm$7.34 nm such as the transparence water as the results for measuring by the laser light scattering. A zeta potential value was -55.1$\pm$0.84 ㎷. The result of the clinical test, the moisturizing effect (in-vivo, n=8, p-value<0.05) was improved 21.15% compared to control, as well as it was improved 36.31 % before the treatment. Moreover, the effectiveness of atopy skin indicated positive reaction that patients were 10 volunteers.

The cosmetic industry associated L-ascorbic acid (LAA) or not with its salts and esters, to be employed for fighting the cutaneous aging process. In large part, in the segment of cosmetics, the salts and esters of the LAA alone are employed more frequently than the pure LAA, since the former are chemically more stable, but result in less effective products. The present work refers to a process for stabilizing LAA in an aqueous medium, which includes the step of placed the LAA in contact with Polyvinylalcohol (PVA) through weak force like Van der Waals interaction. The PVA provides stability for LAA aqueous solution, which is stable for 106 days with a LAA content decrease only of 10% w/v.

In cosmetic formulations, texture plays a key role in ingredient choice and formulation optimization. But texture parameters are often measured by sensorial analysis in the last stages of formulation development. Rheology or texture analysis, used separately, has the benefit of characterizing the behavior of raw materials (e.g. polymers) and controlling and predicting the stability of formulations. SEPPIC has developed rheology and texture analysis protocols to obtain a better understanding of the influence of raw materials on the cosmetic texture of formulations. When used in combination, these two methodologies are complementary and provide useful data regarding the impact of raw material choice on all the development steps: manufacturing procedure, formulation stability, skin feeling.

Unstable cosmetic active ingredients could be degraded rapidly by chemical and photochemical process. Particularly, some of active ingredients like retinol are known to cause skin irritation when applied on the skin excessively. Therefore, it has become a very important issue to encapsulate cosmetic actives for the stabilization and skin protection. This study was performed in order to prepare a chitosan microcapsule containing liposoluble cosmetic actives and to investigate the stabilization effect of actives when chitosan microcapsule was applied in cosmetic formulation. Chitosan, deacetylated form of chitin, has been of interest in the industrial applications due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, non-toxicity, antimicrobial activity and also used as a wall material of capsule. Retinol was used as a core material and was stabilized by a wall of chitosan and antioxidants. The chitosan microcapsule containing retinol(CMR) was prepared by using coacervation method and W$_1$/O/W$_2$ emulsification techniques. The CMR has 0.5~10.0 ${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$ size distribution and a long-term stability of more than an year inside the cosmetic formulation(O/W). Remaining retinol percentages at 45$^{\circ}C$ after 8 weeks in the CMR dispersion were 15.6%(pH 4.0), 59.8%(pH 6.0) and 65.0%(pH 6.0 with antioxidant) respectively. Retinol stability when added CMR inside a ONV emulsion was better than that of ONV emulsion added non-capsulated retinol. As a result, remaining retinol at 45$^{\circ}C$ after 8 weeks in O/W emulsion added non-capsulated retinol and O/W emulsion containing CMR was 12.7%, 70.5% respectively. It appeared that chitosan treated microcapsule may be used for a potential encapsulation method of unstable active ingredients.

Indonesia is a tropical country having a temperature range of 25-35$^{\circ}C$ which can affect the skin and causes damages like aging. This aging process is due, at least, to free radical reactions. For this reason, many attempts had been done to find out creams containing natural antioxidant compound which have a potential of free radical scavenger. Kluwek, a fermented form of foot ball fruit or picung (Pangium edule.Reinw), had been proved to contain antioxidant compound in its methanol fraction oil to which antiaging cream was formulated. Stability evaluation was conducted for cream with Kluwek oil compared to base cream, including organoleptic (colour and odour), pH, viscosity, particle size, centrifugation test and flow characteristics either in room temperature (27$^{\circ}C$) or stress condition (4$^{\circ}C$ and 5$0^{\circ}C$) for 8 weeks continuously, and six times cycling test at 4$^{\circ}C$ and 5$0^{\circ}C$ every 24 hours. The results showed that cream with Kluwek oil and base cream were stable at temperature 27 and 4$^{\circ}C$, cycling test and centrifugation test, but not stable at 5$0^{\circ}C$. Free radical evaluation was done by Electron Spin Resonance and the result showed that cream with Kluwek oil had less free radicals compared to base cream.

Strategies to make finished products more stable and efficacious can take advantage of formulation technologies- ingredients and techniques - to improve their delivery into the skin by both enhanced penetration and delayed release. Nanometer range particles and emulsion droplets can be formed with a selection of either silicone copolyol or conventional organic surfactants and dispersion shear rates sufficient to generate stable submicron droplets. By incorporating these into systems with biomimetic liquid crystalline gel networks in either simple or multiple phase emulsions the skin delivery can be enhanced as shown in tape stripping experiments. Such systems can stabilize labile actives, such as Vitamin C and retinol, and aid delivery. Laboratories in U.S and Europe investigated actives including green tea polyphenols, salicylic acid and methyl and benzyl nicotinate.

Recently the trend of new materials development is extensively and very actively progressing in the study of physical and chemical characteristics developing a totally new material along with the study field of recently discovered material modifying physically and chemically characteristics. Among these fields of studies, one method to improve adaptation of inorganic material is the study of mesoporous materials. The most general way to synthesize mesoporous materials is to mold the very systematical mesopore into a corpuscle by using templates(omitted)

Vitamin C's function and mechanism are comparatively well known among the several kinds of vitamins. Inhibition of free radical. promotion of collagen synthesis, restraint of melanin formation and resolution of melanin are its main functions. But Vitamin C is very easy to oxidize by heat, moisture or air so it causes stability problem to make formulation. To solve these problems unique formulating method or derivatives using method could be effective. Object: First, stabilize 10% of Ascorbic acid as polyol/silicone emulsion and try to make polyol/silicone/polyol anhydrous multiple emulsion secondly. And then, encapsulate with porous power to enhance the stability of Ascorbic Acid from formulating method.

Ursolic acid (UA) and oleanolic acid (OA) are pentacyclic triterpenoids which are widely distributed in plants, and their derivatives are aglycones of many naturally occurring saponins. It is known that pentacyclic acids may possibly enhance the mechanical barrier functions of cell membranes in plants. Recently, it has been reported that OA and UA have interesting biological activities on skin, such as anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle activities. Since triterpenoids are extremely insoluble and their solubility problem limits skin-care application, OA and UA were encapsulated in liposomes via micelle-to-vesicle transition to overcome poorly soluble property and enhance biological efficacy. Optimal molar ratio of OA to lecithin was found to exist for producing liposomes of small hydrodynamic size and liposomal suspensions without recrystallized precipitation of OA. From electron micrograph and dynamic light scattering studies, reconstituted OA-containing liposomes without severe mechanical treatment showed small hydrodynamic size about 150 nm. Wide-angle X-ray diffraction coupled with dynamic light scattering revealed that optimal amount of OA in liposome was 25.4 mole %. In biological evaluation, OA-containing liposome significantly increased filaggrin and transglutaminase as markers of keratinocyte differentiation in epidermal layer of hairless mouse, whereas ursolic acid-containing liposome did not show noticeable increase of filaggrin and transglutaminase compared to empty liposome. It is concluded that nano-scaled liposomes containing triterpenoids were spontaneously prepared by vesicular transition from mixed micelle and liposomal triterpenoids can enhance skin absorption of triterpenoid and biological efficacy.

The formation of emulsions and micelles in water/ceramide PC104/CholE $O_{20}$/C$_{16}$E $O_{20}$ and water/ceramide PC104/CholE $O_{20}$ mixtures was investigated through the phase behavior studies. The phase diagrams showed the existence of micelle and emulsion regions in both systems. The mixed surfactant system (CholE $O_{20}$/C$_{16}$E $O_{20}$) showed the wider micellar and emulsion regions than the single surfactant system (CholE $O_{20}$). From FT-IR measurements, it was found that the polyoxyethylene (POE) groups of surfactants formed the hydrogen bonds with amido carbonyl group in ceramide PC104. This result indicated that the hydrophilic part (EO) of surfactants could stabilize the lamellar structure and emulsion of ceramide PC104. The mixed surfactant system (CholE $O_{20}$/C$_{16}$E $O_{20}$) resulted in the smaller emulsion droplet size due to the effect of curvature at the interface, thus further increasing emulsion stability. With the penetration of $C_{16}$E $O_{20}$into the interfacial layer of surfactants in emulsion, the curvature of the interface might be altered for the formation of smaller emulsion droplets. The mixed surfactant system could incorporate up to 4 wt. % of ceramide PC104 into emulsion more than single surfactant system.ystem.m.

Yew (Taxus cuspidata Sieb.) chose that grow as medicine, food, decorative plant in Korea's Kyong-Gi province surroundings. Extracts of yew extracted leaf of 250 g and stems of 300 g with 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG), propylene glycol (PG) and water. As results, external appearance of leaf extract of yew was slightly brown clear extract. The pH was 5.3$\pm$0.5, and specific gravity was 1.012$\pm$0.05, and refractive index was 1.375$\pm$0.05. Also, appearance of stem's extract was slightly brown clear extract, and the pH was 5.4$\pm$0.5, and specific gravity was 1.016$\pm$0.05, and refractive index was 1.358$\pm$0.05. Oil of yew separated from seeds, and extracted polysaccharide high purity from fruits. As a result, specific gravity of oil was 0.987, and obtained 40% of yield. Total polyphenols amount of yew extract is detected 0.563% in leaves, 0.325% in stems, whereas total tannins amount contained 0.054% and 0.037% each in leaves and stems. As effect in cosmetics, the anti-oxidative effect by DPPH method is 75.0% in leaves, and stems was 64.0%. Collagen synthesis rate was shown high activity by 54.16% in stem's extract, 33.18% in leaves' extract. Also, PPE-inhibitory activities were 13.7% and 23.5% each in leaves and stems. Anti-inflammatory effect of yew seed oil displayed superior effect of 41 % than control. Polysaccharide's molecular weight that is gotten from fruits was 5$\times$10$^4$~3$\times$10$^{5}$ dalton, and got 20.0$\pm$5% of yield.

II-A isotherms and phase behaviors of 'tocomide', a newly synthesized 1,3-bis(N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-tocopherol succinylamino)-2-hydroxypropane, mixed with cholesterol and linoleic acid, was studied for its monolayer miscibility and a stable delivery formulation for antioxidant applications. The monolayer of tocomide and cholesterol was formed in a homogeneously mixed state at air-water interface. The ternary mixtures with linoleic acid showed various bulk structures, including a stable and transparent solution of thermodynamically stable lamellar phase. The lamellar structure was confirmed by the X-ray diffraction (XRD) patterns and polarized microscopy such that pure tocomide formed a liquid crystal at room temperature with a lamellar periodicity of 36.7 $\AA$(2$\theta$=2.41$^{\circ}$).

Viscarin is a tradename given to viscosifying carrageenans manufactured by FMC BioPolymer. The suitability of Vis car ins as rheology agents in mild cleansing applications has been investigated. Rheological properties, foam volume and clarity were measured to determine the impact of including 1 % Viscarin on 10% solutions of the following surfactants: acylglutamate, cocoamidopropyl betaine, PEG-80 laurate, sodium lauryl sulphate and sodium lauryol sarcosinate. Viscosity, pseudoplasticity and thixotropy of Viscarin/surfactant solutions varied with surfactant type. In all cases, the addition of Viscarin substantially increased viscosity. For example, at a shear rate of 1 sol, all surfactant solutions had viscosities <0.1 Pa s while viscosities of Viscarin/surfactant solutions ranged from 10 to 60 Pa s. By comparison, a solution of 1 % Viscarin had a viscosity of 0.3 Pa s. Clarity of surfactant solutions decreased in all cases on the addition of Viscarin. However, it was found that by including a mild solubilizing surfactant, such as PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil, crystal clarity could be maintained in Viscarin/surfactant solutions. Viscarin increased the foam volume of sodium lauryolsarcosinate solutions from 10 ml to 220 ml and had no impact on the foam volume of the other surfactants tested. These results were used to formulate a clear, ultra-mild foaming cleansing gel based on sodium lauryol sarcosinate and Viscarin without the need for a secondary, foam-boasting surfactant. A mild shampoo was also formulated. Both products have excellent skin-feel and are capable of suspending bubbles and solid inclusions.

MFD (Make up Film Deterioration) is a gradual deterioration of applied make up and is a common problem experienced by most foundation users. Our investigation revealed that for 64% of all make up users MFD is their greatest consern is using foundations. Known that the primary cause of MFD is sebum secretion. We observed that the length of time prior to onset of MFD in people who produce high level of sebum varies significantly from person to person. This suggests that other factors besides quantity of sebum production can affect MFD. Control over this factor would, we believe, be key to developing longer-lasting makeups. We studied the relationship between MFD and skin surface conditions. Our study revealed that furrows on the skin surface affect MFD significantly. Sebum reaches the skin surface from sebaceous glands and flows along furrow on the skin. If there are many deep furrows, it takes longer for sebum to overflow. But if the furrows are few or shallow, sebum quickly overflows and spreads over the skin surface where it can degrade the make up film. Therefore even when the volume of sebum produced is the same, the rate of MFD will be different depending on the number and shape of the furrows. A longer-lasting foundation could be produced by matching personal skin condition, but this would be very difficult because individual variations in texture are very large. Therefore we approached the problem by attempting to impose sebum resistance in under make up and foundation. We have developed two new materials and make up products based on our theory. A new fluoroalkyl acrylate-methacrylates copolymer designed for incorporation in under make up is extremely sebum resistant and sweat proof. Another new acrylate polymer designed for inclusion in foundation absorbs sebum and changes to a solid. Usage tests confirm it is possible to reduce MFD by using under make up and foundation which incorporate our new materials to cover where skin furrows are few or shallow

Nanoemulsions have many specific characters compared with general emulsions in aspect of stability, rheological property, uniformity, high interfacial tension and so on. Therefore we study on nanoemulsions with changing various lecithins and oils using microfluidizer. As lecithins, we used saturated lecithin, unsaturated lecithin and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine. Caprylic capric triglyceride, Squalane, Macadamia nut oil, Liquid paraffins, Dimethicone, and Cyclomethicone were used as oils. To identify nanoemulsions, we measured paticle size, zeta potential, turbidity and transmission electron microscope.

A new technology to achieve o/w microemulsions allows the formulation of transparent products with low surfactant content. The PIT Nanotechnology approach gives cosmetic/pharmaceutical o/w microemulsions in one step with a broad variety of surfactants, cosurfactants and oil phases.

DNA is known as the genetic material in cells. Various environmental factors can cause DNA damages. One of them is sunlight. The life on earth depends on the sunlight, but on the other hand, the UV light in sunlight can cause skin DNA damages. When these damages are not fully repaired before replication, they can lead to mutations of oncogenes and tumour suppressor gene and result in photo carcinogenesis, in the end, skin cancer.(omitted)

In this study, we evaluate the correlation between in vitro and in vivo determination of SPF of sunscreen products containing various ingredients depending on emulsification system. For in vitro approach, we determined SPF by the method of Diffey and Robson using an TransporeTM tape(3M Health care, USA) and SPF 290-analyzer(Optometrics Co. USA). SPF values and standard deviations are calculated and displayed after completion of the run. In vivo SPF values are determined according to KFDA (the Korea Food and Drug Administration) method in panels of Fitzpatrick's skin type II or III. We investigated the difference in SPF data of sunscreen ingredient according to emulsification system. The in vivo SPF data is high in water-in oil(W/O) emulsion than in oil-in water(O/W) emulsion samples. The difference may be due to the particular behavior in each vehicles and its presence on skin surface may produce a different sunscreen film. We obtained the corrlation coefficient between in vitro and in vivo SPF data for O/W (R-squre=0.72 )and W/O emulsion(R-squre=0.77). From these results, we suggest the improvement of methodology using Transpore$^{TM}$ tape as substrate to increase the predictability of in vitro method.d.

The use of both an Alpha Hydroxy Acid, Citric Acid, and a Skin Moisturizer, Glycereth-26, formulated into a hand dishwashing detergent have been shown to be synergistic in their effects on certain skin health parameters. Each ingredient was evaluated alone and together in a hand dishwashing detergent via a 9-week use test. Panelists washed dishes using the sponge method commonly used in Asian markets and a 1:7 dilution of the concentrated dish detergent. Panelist's hands were evaluated initially and at 3-week intervals for nine weeks. After nine weeks panelist's hands showed significant improvements in Moisture Absorption and Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). A synergistic effect on TEWL was found between the AHA and the Moisturizer. These effects, showing an improvement in the condition of the panelist's skin are impressive, particularly since they were observed from a dishwashing product that is highly diluted and at near neutral pH during the washing process.

This study was observed the variations in skin color, hydration, sebum content according to age groups at the forehead, both cheeks, and chin in 154 healthy Korean women subjects with aged 30 to 59. We selected four face sites (forehead, right cheek, left cheek, and chin) and measured with chromameter, corneometer, and sebumeter. All statistical analysis was performed on the computer software package SPSS 8.0. There was no significant difference of lightness between facial four regions in age groups but lightness showed to tend to age-related decrease on each regions. Redness and yellowness showed the highest values on chin and forehead respectively but there was no tendency to steady changes according to age variation. Both cheeks showed the highest hydration level and the lowest sebum content compared with forehead and chin in all age groups and there was tendency to age-related changes of sebum content on both cheeks. So we concluded there was decreasing tendency in lightness and sebum content according to the increase of age and there was no age-related change of skin hydration level at least in facial skin.(omitted)

We selected 113 subjects (male:59, female:54) in 20 to 29 age and observed the skin color difference between female and male. Also we measured the minimal persistent pigment darkening dose (MPPD) in same subjects. The skin colors of upper inner arm and back were measured with chromameter (CR10, Minolta, Japan) which represents skin color as $L^{*}$, $a^{*}$, and $b^{*}$ in value. MPPD was measured with solar simulator multi-port 601(Solarlight Co. USA). All statistical analysis was performed on the computer software package SPSS 8.0. The skin colors between male and female was significant difference in back and upper inner arm. There was significant difference of skin colors between back and upper inner arm in both male and female. There was no relationship existed between the values of MPPD and skin color ( $L^{*}$ $a^{*}$ $b^{*}$) of back in both male and female. As a result of survey, we knew that there was apparent difference of skin color between back and upper inner arm due to gender. Also we hope these data will be helpful to study on the correlation of the pigmentation index and skin color.(omitted)omitted)ted)

Because cosmetics are applied directly to human skin, contamination of such products by microorganisms should be carefully avoided. Since cosmetics are usually kept at room temperature and contain large amounts of nitrogen and carbon sources, they may easily become contaminated by a variety of microorganisms, such as bacteria, filamentous fungi, and yeasts. The rapid and accurate identification of these microorganisms is essential to prevent further expansion of such contamination and the damage it causes. However, more than 30 days and laboratory skills are usually necessary in order to identify microorganisms in cosmetic materials. These time and labor constraints may allow further damage of the cosmetic products and thereby harm the consumer.(omitted)

The use of relaxing cosmetic products is more and more widespread on the self care market, since stress is considered as a major cause of discomfort in modem life. Cortisol, the stress hormone, helps the human body to regulate itself by acting on carbonhydrate, proteins and fat metabolisms. IgA are immune molecules involved in the stress response of the human body. The less the human body is stressed, the more the salivary IgA rate increases. Salivary cortisol and IgA have the advantage of being easily assessed with non invasive methods. Finally, conductance is the measurement of the modification in the electrical resistance of the skin. By this means, the measurement of the conductance enable the assessment of somebody's stress.(omitted)

Turn concept into reality, with a contemporary liquid rheology modifier and open the door to a new level of freedom in surfactant-based formulating, Carbopol$^{(R)}$ Aqua SF-1 polymer is an alkali swellable, lightly crosslinked acrylic polymer, It is supplied as a 30％ active polymer in water.(omitted)d)

Clear rinse-off ...gels can be prepared. allowing the introduction of novel product forms. Styling gels with improved viscosity, conditioning. clarity and product aesthetics are also possible with this concept. Beyond the creation of clear product.(omitted)

With Fixate$^{TM}$ G-100 polymer, a whole new world of styling product possibilities awaks you. Fixate$^{TM}$ G-100 polymer satisties the demand for high performance products that offer significant consumer perceptible benefits, while meeting the tormulator's needs for cost control and manufacturing efficiency.(omitted)ted)

Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage and aging. The extract of tinged autumnal leaves of maple tree(Acer palmatum) has proven to be a powerful antioxidant. The Acer palmatum extract is very effective on the stabilization of biological membranes( containing unsaturated fatty acid). We studied photoprotective effect of the extract against UVB-induced cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes. The extract improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. In the determination test of pro inflammatory cytokines the extract decreased expression of interleukin 1 a and 6, which play an important role in inflammation and skin erythema caused by UV. We also studied property of varying cosmetic formulations on the percutaneous absorption of the extract. After 24 hour in vitro penetration study, the content of the extract was more highly detected in skin residue part. This result showed the extract had relatively high compatibility of skin in our emulsion system. On human skin, after appling the product containing the extract we obtained a good result of antiwrinkle effect by skin visiometer. In conclusion, the Acer palmatum extract is a photoprotective and very effective in stressed and aged skin care. And we can predict the extract mainly affects on the skin cell and tissue in our emulsion system.

We investigated the tyrosinase inhibitory effect using whitening materials such as arbutin, ethyl ascorbyl ether, glabridin, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbic acid. Tyrosinase inhibition rate were determined varying the enzyme concentration, reaction time, reaction temperature and pH. The optimal conditions to measure the inhibitory efficacy were as follows. : enzyme concentration 1,500 or 2,000IU/mL, reaction time 15min(for the enzyme concentration 1,500 IU/mL) and l0min(for the enzyme concentration 2,000IU/mL), reation temperature 42$^{\circ}C$, pH 6.5. Under these conditions $IC_{50}$/ of arbutin, ethyl ascorbyl ether, glabridin, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbic acid were calculated. In the case of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, the inhibitory effect of tyrosinase was very low and the $IC_{50}$/ of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate could not be calculated. Other five materials showed good inhibitory effect of tyrosinase and can be used for the whitening materials.

A rapid and efficient method for analyzing the nonionic surfactants and silicone polymers, which control the shape and characteristics of cosmetic products and give influence on product quality, has been developed using Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (MALDI- TOF IMS). The MALDI-TOF/MS could easily and effectively determine the molecular weight distribution and monomer units of nonionic surfactants. As a result, creating a library of mass spectrum data of surfactants used in cosmetic products using MALDI-TOF/MS and analyzing surfactants extracted from the products may become a useful method for detailed structural characterization of the surfactants. Furthermore, the MALDI-TOF/MS analysis was effective in obtaining the spectrum of silicone polymers from which the molecular weight distribution could be determined. The repetition units and structural data could also be obtained through molecular mass peaks. Additionally, the monomer ratio and terminal groups as properties of silicone copolymers could be determined

SZ95 cell is an immortalized human sebaceous gland cell line that shows the morphologic, phenotypic and functional characteristics of normal human sebocytes. Sebocytes may play crucial parts in the pathophysiologic processes and disorders of the pilosebaceous unit. The secretory activity of the sebaceous gland is remarkably species-specific and acne is an exclusively human disease. Thus, this SZ95 cells offer possibilities for investigations on the physiology of the sebaceous gland and its role in sebum-associated skin disease such as acne. In this study, we investigated the effects of 13-cis-retinoic acid (13-cis-RA) and spironolactone, frequently used as therapeutic agents of acne, on the lipid synthesis and proliferation of human sebocytes. Cell proliferation was determined by MTT assay and cytoplasmic lipid droplets was shown by Oil-red a staining. Total lipid levels were biochemically estimated by the sulfo-phospho-vanilline reagent. 13-cis-RA and spironolactone significantly inhibited proliferation and lipid levels in a dose-dependent manner. Combined treatment with testosterone and 13-cis-RA or spironolactone resulted in a lower total lipid levels than that with androgen alone. These observations indicate that 13-cis-RA and spironolactone are potent inhibitors of both cell proliferation and lipid synthesis in human sebocytes. We will provide experimental evidence that this human sebocyte cell line serves as an adequate tool for evaluating the anti-lipogenic activity of various compounds potentially useful for the bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients on acne skin, and studying the intracellular biochemical markers depending on the types of compounds from various sources.

Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) includes a group of organic acids found in natural foods such as sugarcane (glycolic acid), milk (lactic acid), apples (malic acid) and oranges (citric acid). Earlier studies demonstrated the effect of AHAs on the skin by diminishing the adhesiveness of the corneal layer and increasing the viable epidermal thickness. Recent data suggest that AHAs have some effects on the dermal component of skin and even affect the aging process of the skin. A previous study revealed increased collagen production by treatment with glycolic acid among AHAs in vitro. However, the mechanism of the regulation of collagen production by glycolic acid was unclear. In present study, we tried to demonstrate the effect of glycolic acid on human dermal fibroblasts and to unveil the mechanism of regulation of collagen production by glycolic acid in human dermal fibroblasts: proliferation of fibroblasts and collagen synthesis and degradation by collagenases in fibroblasts. Our results suggested that glycolic acid had no effect on proliferation and cytotoxicity of adult human dermal fibroblasts. However, glycolic acid not only induced the increase of the collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts at lower concentration than 0.1 % but also inhibited MMP-2 activity of human dermal fibroblast in the range between 0.01 and 0.4% and MMP-9 activity of human dermal fibroblast in the range between 0.06 and 0.09%. In summary, our results suggest that glycolic acid may increase wrinkle reduction partially by both increase in collagen synthesis and decrease in collagen degradation.

Lipsticks are cosmetics which do not contain water and are usually preserved with parabens. When submitted to the Challenge Test, theses products did not reach the CTFA criteria, which means that microbiological contamination could occur before the end of its shelf life. The aim of this study was to evaluate the contamination level of 130 lipsticks after its use. Microorganisms were isolated from 14,6 % of the samples. However, only in two samples (1,5%) the contamination level exceeded the 100 CFU/g level, which means that, although the preservative system was not efficient to eliminate bacteria, the lack of free water was enough to prevent the microbial development. Total bacteria and fungi were determined by conventional methodology, according to CTFA Microbiological Guidelines. The microbes were then isolated and characterized as normal skin flora microorganisms. This suggest that products were contaminated by the constant application of lipsticks by consumers. This could lead to cross contamination when the same product is shared by several people. Extra care should be taken into account when this type of products are available to be tested by several consumers in demonstration displays.

A high-performance liquid chromatographic method for the simultaneous quantitative analysis of DMDM hydantoin, sorbic acid, phenoxy ethanol in cosmetics was studied by using a X-terra C$\sub$18/ column and 0.75mM KH$_2$PO$_4$ in 0.85% sulfuric acid and methanol mixture(7:3) at 214nm. Calibration curves were found to be linear in the 20-100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL range (DMDM hydantoin), 50-250 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL range (sorbic acid) and 10-50 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL range (phenoxy ethanol). The result of recovery test were 96.6% ∼ 104.2%. This HPLC method can be applied quality control of cosmetics.

The present study was undertaken to develop the in vitro sun protection factor(SPF) test method having good correlation with in vivo method using human. 8% homomentyl salicylate, P3 reference standard and commercially available sunscreen products were measured by the in vitro method using SPF 290S analyzer, and the SPFs were compared with the SPFs measured by in vivo test method. In vitro SPFs of 8% HMS and P3 reference standard were 4.59 $\pm$ 0.12 and 14.94 $\pm$ 0.83. There are good correspondence, correlation coefficients were 0.9506 and 0.9769 respectively, between the in vitro and in vivo SPFs for the sunscreen creams and lotions. Correlation coefficients of makeup base/liquid foundation, lotion labled with "shake before use" and compact powder were 0.8812, 0.8632 and 0.5984 respectively. The optimum mixture ratio of compact powder and cream base represents 1:0.8. These results suggest that the in vitro SPF test method will be able to be used as an alternative method for in vivo SPF in case of lotion and cream.

Real-time measurements of skin movement induced by air blown on the surface was measured with time. We investigated age-related changes in displacement of the skin surface on the face or the inner upper arm caused by air on 98 Japanese women volunteers aged from 10 to 70 years old. The maximum distance (the denting state) that the skin moved reached 2-5 mm within 10-15 msec on the cheek skin. After that, the skin generally recovered to the original state within 40-50 msec. The maximum speed of movement was 0.5 m/sec and the recovery speed was about 0.25 m/sec on the cheek skin. Significant changes with age were not observed in the denting state, but a significant correlation with age was observed in the recovery state. For example, the maximum recovery speed decreased significantly with age (p=-0.568, p<0.001) and the time required for recovery increased significantly with age (p=0.561, p<0.001). Although the inner upper arm also showed similar results to a cheek, a few parameters were different. This apparatus is a more practical macroscopic system for evaluating skin mechanical properties without contact. This apparatus is effective not only for measuring the mechanical properties of facial skin but also of body skin, such as swelling or sagging of body parts.

We investigated the inhibitory effect of whitening materials with growth factor or alone on melanomas derived from Human (B-16) and mouse (SK-MEL-31) using melanin content. Melanin content was determined by the absorbance value at 470nm per cells. we used the growth factors known as activators of Adenylate cyclase, Protein kinase C and tyrosine kinase pathway separately. In addition, we compared the action of UV-induced with non-biological growth factor with whitening materials in melanomas derived from Human and mouse. The results showed that the aspect of inhibitory effect of whitening materials on B16 and SK-MEL-31 was not different. And, the action of each growth factor involved in the differentiation and proliferation of melanoma on the inhibition of melanogenesis in B-16 and SK-MEL-31 using whitening agents showed no difference. Also, The action of UV -induced and non-biological growth factors didn't exhibit different pattern on the effect of whitening agent in B-16 and SK-MEL-31.

A tyrosinase inhibitor, Lonjapoin, was isolated from the ethanolic extracts of Flos Lonicera by activity-guided fractionation. Lonjapoin ($IC_{50}$/; 2.07 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL) was found to be potentially as effective inhibitor of production of melamin. Flos Lonicera (Jinyinhua) is the dry flower buds of Lonicera japonica. Thunb. It is used as an antibacterial and antiphlogistic agent in the treatment of abscess, laryngeal catarrh, erysipelas, dysentery, cold and fever. In our continuing search for natural source as cosmetic ingredients from Chinese medicinal herbs and found the extracts of Flos Lonicera showed the significant tyrosinase inhibition activity. In this study the active constituent of Lonicera japonica. obtained with the process of tyrosinase activity assay and column chromatography.