Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Anti-wrinkle Effect of Cosmetics Containing Duchesnea indica Extract

사매추출물을 함유하는 화장품의 주름 개선 효과

  • Yang, Woong-Suk (Li Su Pharm Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Kim, Young-Min (Clinical Trial Center for Bio-Industry, Semyung University) ;
  • Kim, Ee-Hwa (Clinical Trial Center for Bio-Industry, Semyung University) ;
  • Seu, Young-Bae (School of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, College of Natural sciences, Kyungpook National University) ;
  • Yang, Yoon-Jung (Department of Natural Medicine Resources, Semyung University) ;
  • Kim, Hyun-Woo (Department of Natural Medicine Resources, Semyung University) ;
  • Kang, Se Chan (Department of Natural Medicine Resources, Semyung University)
  • 양웅석 (이수제약(주)) ;
  • 김용민 (세명대학교 한방바이오산업 임상지원센터) ;
  • 김이화 (세명대학교 한방바이오산업 임상지원센터) ;
  • 서영배 (경북대학교 생명과학부) ;
  • 양윤정 (세명대학교 자연약재학과) ;
  • 김현우 (세명대학교 자연약재학과) ;
  • 강세찬 (세명대학교 자연약재학과)
  • Received : 2010.09.13
  • Accepted : 2010.11.11
  • Published : 2010.12.30
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Abstract

In this study, we investigated anti-oxidative effects of Duchesnea indica extracts by using Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC). The extracts were prepared with 0 %, 30 %, 50 %, 70 % and 100 % aqueous ethanol respectively. The 30 % EtOH D. indica extract showed higher ORAC activity than the other extracts. Therefore, we performed in vitro studies on cytotoxicity of NIH-3T3 cells and MMP-8 collagenase inhibition using by the 30 % EtOH extract. The 30 % EtOH extract showed no cytotoxicity and significant inhibition on MMP-8 collagenase. And we performed clinical studies for the anti-wrinkle effect of the Di-Wrinkle Free Cream. The cream formula was prepared with 2 % arbutin and 1 % D. indica extract. Twenty one healthy women volunteers, ages of 35 and 50, applied the cream on their faces twice a day for 8 weeks. The skin was evaluated with PRIMOS (phaseshift rapid in vivo measuring of human skin) system and analyzed by the student's paired t-test. The wrinkles on the eye region were reduced by 13 % based on the PRIMOS system after 8 weeks. In the safety study of the Di-Wrinkle Free Cream, no symptoms were observed such as erythema, edema, scaling, itching, stinging, burning, tightness and prickling by visual observation and medical examination of volunteers for 8 weeks. Moreover, there was no noticeable skin disorder during experience period. These results suggested that D. indica extracts could be applied as cosmeceuticals effective for anti-wrinkle.

본 연구는 에탄올 농도별(0, 30, 50, 70, 100 %)로 추출한 사매추출물의 항산화 효과를 Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity(ORAC)로 평가한 결과 30 % 에탄올 추출물에서 가장 우수하였다. 따라서 30 % 에탄올 추출물의 주름 완화에 관련한 효능 및 효과를 확인하기 위하여 마우스 유래 섬유아세포에 대한 세포 독성, MMP-8 collagenase 억제 활성 검사를 실시하였다. 그 결과 30 % 에탄올 사매추출물을 섬유아세포에 처리한 결과 세포 독성이 없었고, 20 %의 MMP-8 collagenase 억제 활성을 보였다. 사매 추출물 1 %가 함유된 Di-Wrinkle Free Cream (DWFC)으로부터 35 ~ 50세의 21명 여성을 대상으로 하루에 2번 도포하여 8주간 인체 안전성과 주름개선 임상평가를 수행하였다. 주름 평가 방법은 3차원 입체 측정기(PRIMOS)를 이용하여 평가를 하였다. DWFC에 대한 안전성 평가는 피험자 방문 시 마다 이상반응, 부종, 인설, 가려움, 자통, 작열감, 뻣뻣함, 따끔거림이나 다른 이상반응이 발생하는지 육안평가와 문진으로 평가하였다. PRIMOS(GFM, Germany)를 이용하여 눈 주변의 주름을 분석한 결과 시험제품 사용 8주 후 통계적으로 유의하게 주름이 13 % 감소하였으며, 시험기간 동안 특별한 피부 이상반응은 관찰되지 않았다. 이와 같은 결과로 보아 사매추출물은 인체에 부작용이 없는 주름개선에 효과 있는 화장품으로 개발이 가능할 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

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