Korean Chemical Engineering Research

The Korean Institute of Chemical Engineers (한국화학공학회)
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Cudrania tricuspidata Root Extract as Whitening and Antiwrinkle Cosmetic Agent

꾸지뽕나무 뿌리 열수추출물로부터 미백 및 주름개선 화장품 소재의 개발

  • Shin, Hyejin (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Jeong, Hyangli (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Hwang, Danbi (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Kim, Donguk (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University)
  • Received : 2014.04.10
  • Accepted : 2014.06.07
  • Published : 2014.12.01
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Abstract

Water extracts of root, leaf, branch and fruit of Cudrania tricuspidata were tested to use as natural antiwrinkle and whitening cosmetic ingredient. Root extract indicated 86.5 mg/g polyphenol concentration and 55.5 mg/g flavonoid concentration. From MTT test, root, branch and fruit extract did not show cell toxicity up to $1,000{\mu}g/mL$, however, leaf extract displayed significant cell toxicity in concentrations higher than $200{\mu}g/mL$. Cudrania tricuspidata root extracts displayed excellent 81% tyrosinase inhibition (whitening effect), 58% elastase inhibition (antiwrinkle effect) at $500{\mu}g/mL$ and showed minor UVB absorbance. When solution and lotion formulation were made including Cudrania tricuspidata root extract, they are stable at $25^{\circ}C$ for 21 days, but showed significant deviation in viscosity and particle size at $47^{\circ}C$. From the study, Cudrania tricuspidata root extract demonstrated good potential for natural whitening and antiwrinkle cosmetic agent.

본 연구에서는 꾸지뽕나무의 뿌리, 줄기, 열매 및 잎으로부터 유효성분을 열수 추출하고 다양한 화장품 소재 시험을 실시하여 화장품 소재로서의 개발 가능성을 검토하였다. 세포독성시험에서 꾸지뽕나무의 뿌리, 줄기 그리고 열매 추출물은 독성을 나타내지 않았지만 잎 추출물은 $200{\mu}g/ml$ 이상의 농도에서 다소의 독성을 나타내었다. 꾸지뽕나무 뿌리추출물은 $500{\mu}g/ml$의 농도에서 81%의 tyrosinase 억제효과(미백효과)와 58%의 elastase 억제효과(주름개선효과)를 나타내었고, UVB 자외선 흡수능도 다소 보여주었다. 21일간의 온도 안정성 시험 결과, 꾸지뽕 뿌리 추출물을 포함한 액제와 로션제형은 $25^{\circ}C$에서는 안정하였으나 $47^{\circ}C$에서 점도와 입자크기가 불안정하였다. 본 연구 결과 꾸지뽕 뿌리추출물은 높은 폴리페놀 및 플라보노이드의 함량, 우수한 미백 및 주름개선 효과를 나타내어 천연 기능성 화장품 소재로서 높은 가능성을 보여주었다.

Keywords

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