천년초 저온 감압 추출액의 특성 분석 및 화장품 적용

Characterization of Opuntia humifusa Extract Solution Obtained under Low Temperature and Reduced Pressure and Its Application to Cosmetics

Abstract

저온 감압 조건에서 얻어진 천년초 추출액의 여러 특성을 살펴보고, 이 추출액을 보습제로 활용한 에센스 화장품을 제조하였다. 천년초 추출액은 다른 보습제인 글리세린, 히알루론산 1% 용액에 비해 표면장력(25 mN/m)과 접촉각($8^{\circ}$)이 매우 낮은 값으로 나타났다. 또한 점도도 낮고 끈적임이 거의 없는 특성을 보였다. 천년초 저온감압 추출액은 별도의 계면활성제 첨가 없이도 물에 적은 양의 오일을 유화시킬 수 있었다. 다른 보습제와 달리, 화장품 에센스에서 천년초 추출액의 함량이 높을수록 제형의 끈적임과 점도는 감소하는 결과가 나타났다. 이러한 결과들로부터 천년초 저온 감압 추출액이 수분감과 함께 끈적임이 적은 사용감을 부여하는 천연 보습제로 활용이 가능함을 알 수 있었다.

Various characteristics of Opuntia humifusa (O. humifusa) extract solution obtained under low temperature and reduced pressure were examined and cosmetic essences using the extract solution as a humectant were prepared. The O. humifusa extract solution represented very small surface tension (25 mN/m) and contact angle ($8^{\circ}$), compared with other humectants such as glycerine and 1% hyaluronic acid solution. Also, the viscosity and stickiness of the extract solution were very low. The O. humifusa extract solution made it possible for a small amount of oil to be dispersed stably in water without any surfactant. Unlike other humectants, the viscosity and stickiness of cosmetic essences were reduced as the extract solution content in formulation increased. These results show that the O. humifusa extract solution obtained under low temperature and reduced pressure can be used as a natural humectant that provides moisturizing property and less sticky feeling.

Figure 1. Change in water activity of humectants with time.

Figure 2. Comparison of contact angles (a) GL, (b) 1% HA, (c) OHE(H), (d) OHE.

Figure 3. Optical micrographs of dispersed wheat germ oil in humectant/water (1 : 1). (a) GL, (b) 1% HA, (c) OHE.

Figure 4. Comparison of stickiness represented by differences between initial and maximum tension values of the humectant.

Figure 5. Comparison of adhesiveness among the humectants.

Figure 6. Comparison of viscosity among the humectants (RV-02 spindle).

Figure 7. Change in weight loss (%) of cosmetic essences containing different humectants (10%) with time.

Figure 8. Change in adhesiveness of cosmetic essences with different humectant and the added content.

Figure 9. Change in viscosity of cosmetic essences with different humectant and the added content.

Table 1. Composition of Essences

Table 2. Surface Tensions of Humectants