Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Wrinkle Pattern in Korean and Mongolian Women Population

한국인과 몽골인의 주름 패턴분석

  • Received : 2018.06.21
  • Accepted : 2018.09.14
  • Published : 2018.09.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

In today's society, where people look younger than their chronological age due to improvements in the quality of life, there is a gaining interest in anti-aging and how people compare to those in the same age group. We evaluated the wrinkle index, which is the most important attribute amongst skin parameters, to evaluate external age (wrinkle age). The wrinkles of the whole face were scored by divided 8 areas (forehead, glabella, nasal root, upper eyelid, lower eyelid, crow's feet, nasolabial groove and perioral skin) and analyzed the correlation between chronological age and skin parameters. 206 subjects (Korean female, n = 105 and Mongolians female, n = 101) were enrolled. Subjects were divided into four groups by ages: 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50s. Wrinkle scores of 8 areas were evaluated and developed a calculation formula based on the wrinkle scores. Skin characteristic parameters were measured about skin elasticity, pore, wrinkle, sebum secretion. There was no difference between the calculated ages and the chronological ages in Korean women. On the other hand, Mongolian looked older than chronological age by 9 years. The correlation between the facial wrinkle ages and skin physiology parameters was presented in the order of skin elasticity > pore or crow's feet > skin tone > sebum secretion in both countries. Skin elasticity represented the most related parameter with the facial wrinkle ages. This study identified the skin wrinkle patterns of Korean and Mongolian women and the wrinkle age calculation formula developed from this study can be used as a tool for calculating the facial wrinkle ages in cosmetic studies.

오늘날의 사회에서는 삶의 질 향상으로 실제 나이보다 젊어 보이며 이에 따라 노화방지에 대한 관심이 증가하고 있다. 또한 같은 나이의 사람들과 비교했을 때 본인이 젊어 보이는지에 대한 관심이 높아지고 있다. 이 연구에서 우리는 외적 노화에 가장 주요한 영향을 주는 주름 지수를 구하고자 하였다. 전체 얼굴의 주름은 8개로 분할된 영역에 의해 점수화되었고, 실제 연령과 피부 파라미터 사이의 상관 관계를 분석하였다. 연구 대상자 206명(한국인 여성 105명, 몽골 여성 101명)을 대상으로 하였다. 대상자는 연령대별로 20대, 30대, 40대, 50대를 네 군으로 나누었다. 주름 패턴은 주름, 미간, 코뿌리, 눈꺼풀, 눈밑주름, 눈꼬리, 팔자주름, 입가 8개 부위의 주름을 평가하고 주름 점수에 따른 계산식을 개발 하였다. 또한 계산식에 의해 얻어진 주름지수와 연관성 있는 피부 특성 파라미터를 알아보고자 피부 탄력, 모공, 주름, 피지 분비를 측정하였다. 방정식을 적용하여 계산한 한국인의 경우 주름연령과 실제연령과의 차이는 없었다. 반면, 몽골인에서는 실제연령과 비교하여 9세가 더 나이 들어 보인다고 밝혀졌다. 얼굴 주름 나이와 피부 특성 파라미터 사이의 상관 관계는 양국에서 피부 탄력 > 모공 또는 눈꼬리 주름 > 피부 색 > 피지 분비 순으로 나타났다. 피부 탄력은 얼굴 주름 나이와 가장 관련이 있는 변수로 나타났다. 본 연구를 통해 한국과 몽골 여성의 연령별 피부 주름 패턴을 규명하였으며, 이 연구로부터 개발된 주름살 계산식을 향후 화장품의 효능 연구에서 얼굴 주름의 나이를 계산하는 도구로 사용할 수 있을 것으로 생각된다.

Keywords

References

  1. A. V. Rawlings, Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function?, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 28, 79 (2006). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00302.x
  2. S. Nouveau-Richard, Z. Yang, S. Mac-Mary, L. Li, P. Bastien, I. Tardy, C. Bouillon, P. Humbert, and O. de Lacharriere, Skin ageing: a comparison between Chinese and European populations a pilot study, J. Dermatol. Sci., 40, 187 (2005). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2005.06.006
  3. N. O. Wesley and H. I. Maibach, Racial (ethnic) differences in skin properties, Am. J. Clin. Dermatol., 4, 843 (2003). https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304120-00004
  4. H. Qiu, F. Flament, X. Long, J. Wu, M. Xu, D. S. Leger, H. Meaudre, J. Senee, B. Piot and R. Bazin, Seasonal skin darkening in Chinese women: the shanghaiese experience of daily sun protection, Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol., 6, 151 (2013).
  5. H. Qiu, X. Long, J. C. Ye, J. Hou, J. Senee, A. Laurent, R. Bazin, F. Flament, A. Adam, J. Coutet, and B. Piot, Influence of season on some skin properties: winter vs. summer, as experienced by 354 Shanghaiese women of various ages, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 33, 377 (2011). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00639.x
  6. S. W. Youn, J. I. Na, S. Y. Choi, C. H. Huh, and K. C. Park, Regional and seasonal variations in facial sebum secretions: a proposal for the definition of combination skin type, Skin Res. Technol., 11, 189 (2005). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0846.2005.00119.x
  7. E. J. Kim, J. Y. Han, H. K. Lee, Q. Q. He, J. C. Cho, L. Wei, X. Wang, L. Li, L. Wei, H. Liang, X. Gao, B. J. Kim, and G. W. Nam, Effect of the regional environment on the skin properties and the early wrinkles in young Chinese women, Skin Res. Technol., 20(4), 498 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.12144
  8. K. Tsukahara, M. Hotta, T. Fujimura, K. Haketa, and T. Kitahara, Effect of room humidity on the formation of fine wrinkles in the facial skin of Japanese, Skin Res. Technol., 13(2), 184 (2007). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0846.2007.00209.x
  9. A. Vierkotter, U. Ranft, U. Kramer, D. Sugiri, V. Reimann, and J. Krutmann, The SCINEXA: a novel, validated score to simultaneously assess and differentiate between intrinsic and extrinsic skin ageing, J. Dermatol. Sci., 53(3), 207 (2009). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2008.10.001
  10. D. Dicanio, R. Sparacio, L. Declercq, H. Corstjens, N. Muizzuddin, J. Hidalgo, P. U. Giacomoni, L. Jorgensen, and D. Maes, Calculation of apparent age by linear combination of facial skin parameters: a predictive tool to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic treatments and to assess the predisposition to accelerated aging, Biogerontology, 10(6), 757 (2009). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10522-009-9222-6
  11. A. Nkengne, C. Bertin, G. N. Stamatas, A. Giron, A. Rossi, N. Issachar, and B. Fertil, Influence of facial skin attributes on the perceived age of Caucasian women, J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol., 22(8), 982 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2008.02698.x
  12. S. Luebberding, N. Krueger, and M. Kerscher, Comparison of validated assessment scales and 3D digital fringe projection method to assess lifetime development of wrinkles in men, Skin Res. Technol., 20(1), 30 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.12079
  13. A. M. Kligman, P. Zheng, and R. M. Lavker, The anatomy and pathogenesis of wrinkles, Br. J. Dermatol., 113, 37 (1985).
  14. G. Imokawa and Y. Takema, Fine wrinkle formation: etiology and prevention, Cosmet. Toilet., 108, 65 (1993).
  15. Y. Takema, T. Fujimura, H. Ohsu, and G. Imokawa Unusual wrinkle formation after temporary skin fixation followed by UVB irradiation in hairless mouse skin, Exp. Dermatol., 5, 145 (1996). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0625.1996.tb00109.x
  16. K. Tsukahara, O. Osanai, T. Kitahara, and Y. Takema, Seasonal and annual variation in the intensity of facial wrinkles, Skin Res. Technol., 19(3), 279 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.12038
  17. J. Eo, Y. K. Seo, J. H. Baek, A. R. Choi, M. K. Shin, and J. S. Koh, Facial skin physiology recovery kinetics during 180 min post-washing with a cleanser, Skin Res. Technol., 22(2), 148 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.12241