Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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A Study on the Effect of Pigments used in Cosmetic Manufacturing on the Form of Water Dispersible Formulations

화장품 제조에 쓰이는 Pigments 가 수분산 제형에 미치는 영향에 대한 연구

  • Kim, Hyun Jee (Department of Applied Biotechnology, Ajou University) ;
  • Oh, Ji Won (Department of Applied Biotechnology, Ajou University) ;
  • Kwak, Byeong Mun (College of Korean Medicine, Semyung University) ;
  • Lee, Mi Gi (Bio-Center, Gyeonggido Business and Science Accelerator) ;
  • Bin, Bum Ho (Department of Applied Biotechnology, Ajou University)
  • 김현지 (아주대학교 응용생명공학과) ;
  • 오지원 (아주대학교 응용생명공학과) ;
  • 곽병문 (세명대학교 한의과) ;
  • 이미기 (경기도경제과학진흥원) ;
  • 빈범호 (아주대학교 응용생명공학과)
  • Received : 2020.11.15
  • Accepted : 2021.01.26
  • Published : 2021.03.30
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Abstract

Formulations which are dispersed in water are often used in color cosmetics because they are characterized by no powder flying, not sticky, and high adherence while giving a light feeling of use. However, little research has been considered on the effect of the pigment on the above formulations used in color cosmetics. In this study, experiments were conducted to measure and analyze the effect of pigments on the formulation of pigments, organic pigments, and pearl polish, which are mainly used in the manufacture of color cosmetics, on appearance changes, pH changes, and photometric stability. Carmine or ferric ferrocyanide coated titanium dioxide mica-based pigments were not suitable for use due to poor photostability, with colors appearing on the surface from low viscosity formulations. Organic pigments had a good photostability of 1% of the formulation which are dispersed in water, but were not suitable for use because they came out of color on the water surface and did not spread well due to the clumping of powders. The titanium dioxide mica system pigments coated with pearl polish, inorganic pigments, and iron oxide were suitable for use due to their excellent appearance and optical stability in the formulation. Furthermore, the pH of all samples distributed by each pigment seems to be within the range of 3.0 to 9.0, which is suitable for cosmetic applications. This is expected to help manufacture color cosmetics with a stable water dispersible formulations by selecting and using stable pigments in anticipation of the behavior of pigments in the formulations.

수분산 제형은 사용 시 가루 날림이 없고, 끈적이지 않으며 가벼운 사용감을 주면서 밀착력이 높은 특징이 있어 색조 화장품에 많이 이용된다. 하지만 색조 화장품에 사용되는 수분산 제형에서 안료가 미치는 영향에 관한 연구는 거의 검토되지 않았다. 이에 본 연구에서는 색조 화장품 제조에 주로 쓰이는 무기색소, 유기색소, 진주광택안료 등의 안료를 각각 분산시켜 만든 수분산 제형에서 안료가 제형에 미치는 영향에 대하여 외관의 변화, pH의 변화, 광안정성을 측정하고 분석하는 연구를 진행하였다. Carmine 또는 ferric ferrocyanide가 코팅된 이산화티탄 마이카 계 색소는 저점도 수분산 제형에서 수상에 색이 우러나오며, 광안정성이 좋지 않아 사용에 적합하지 않았다. 유기 색소는 수분산 제형에서 1%의 함량으로 광안정성은 양호했으나 수상에 색이 우러나오고, 파우더끼리 뭉쳐서 잘 분산되지 않으므로 사용에 적합하지 않았다. 진주광택안료, 무기 색소, 산화철이 코팅된 이산화티탄 마이카 계 색소는 수분산 제형에서 외관 및 광안정성이 우수하여 사용에 적합하였다. 또한 각각의 안료를 분산시킨 모든 시료의 pH는 모두 3.0 - 9.0 범위 안에 들어 화장품 법에 적합한 것으로 보인다. 이는 색조 화장품 중 수분산 제형에서 안료의 거동을 예상하고 안정한 색소를 선택 및 사용하여 안정한 수분산 제형의 색조 화장품을 제조하는데 도움을 줄 것으로 기대된다.

Keywords

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