Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory and Anti-photoaging Activities of Hydrolyzed Peony (Paeonia lactiflora Pall.) Flower

작약꽃 가수분해물의 항산화, 항염 및 광노화 억제 효능

  • Kyung Ju Lee (Skin & Natural Products Lab., Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd.) ;
  • You Ah Kim (Skin & Natural Products Lab., Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Byoung Jun Park (Skin & Natural Products Lab., Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd.)
  • 이경주 (한국콜마(주) 피부천연물연구소) ;
  • 김유아 (한국콜마(주) 피부천연물연구소) ;
  • 박병준 (한국콜마(주) 피부천연물연구소)
  • Received : 2023.08.04
  • Accepted : 2023.09.22
  • Published : 2023.09.30
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Abstract

This study was conducted to evaluate physiological activity of flower extract of peony (Paeonia lactiflora Pall.) by hydrolysis and to use it as a valuable cosmetic ingredients. Four cultivar of peony flowers were extracted, and the highest active ingredient contents was selected, and that cultivar was used for hydrolyzing. The results showed that high concentration of hydrochloric acid (HCl) hydrolyzed, and biological hydrolysis using enzymes had no activity. The deglycosylation of peonidin 3,5-diglucoside occurred by hydrolysis. The hydrolysate contains 63.3 ppm of peonidin, a red-colored anthocyanin compound. The antioxidant activity of hydrolysate was compared with extract. The results showed the strong antioxidant activity in hydrolysate (96%) than extract (82%). In addition, hydrolysate of peony flower showed higher inhibitory activity of NO release than extract. UVA assay using fibroblast cell (CCD-986Sk) showed that hydrolysate increased cell viability than extract under UVA exposure. Based on these results, we anticipate that hydrolysate of peony flower can be used a valuable cosmetic ingredient.

본 연구에서는 작약꽃을 가수분해하여 플라보노이드계 화합물인 peonidin 배당체를 비배당체로 전환하여 생리 활성을 증대시키고 신규 화장품 소재로 이용하고자 하였다. 이를 위해 품종별 작약꽃을 추출하여 유효성분 함량이 가장 높은 품종을 선정하였으며, 해당 품종을 이용하여 가수분해를 진행하였다. 이를 통해 고농도의 hydrochloric acid (HCl) 처리가 가수분해에 가장 적합함을 확인하였으며, 효소를 이용한 생물학적 가수분해는 효과가 없음을 확인하였다. 작약꽃 가수분해물에는 붉은색을 나타내는 안토시아닌계 화합물인 peonidin 배당체가 peonidin으로 전환되어 63.3 ppm 함유되어 있음을 분석을 통해 확인하였다. 작약꽃 가수분해물의 생리 활성을 확인해본 결과, 가수분해물이 일반 작약꽃추출물 대비 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) 라디칼을 소거하는 항산화 활성이 우수하며, nitric oxide (NO) 생성을 저해하는 항염 효과가 증대하였음을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한, ultraviolet A (UVA)에 의한 피부 섬유아세포 손상을 감소시켜 광노화를 억제함을 확인하였다. 따라서 본 연구를 통해 작약꽃 가수분해물이 화장품 산업에서 신규 항노화 소재로 활용이 가능할 것으로 기대된다.

Keywords

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