• 대한기계학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한기계학회 2002년도 학술대회지
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• pp.205-208
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• 2002

Numerous studies have been performed to develop an analytical model that can predict the reflection of regular or irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater. Though such irregular wave models as Suh et at. (2001) become available, regular wave models are still in extensive use because of their simplicity. In the present study, using the regular wave model of Fuggazza and Natale(1992), the reflection of irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater was calculated in several different methods. First, the regular wave model was re-validated by the hydraulic model tests. Though the model somewhat over-predicted the reflection coefficients at larger values and under-predicted them at smaller values, overall agreement was pretty good between calculation and measurement. Then, the regular wave model was applied to calculate the irregular wave reflection in the experiments of Suh et at.(2001) and Bennett et al. (1992). In applying the regular wave model to irregular wave reflection, several different methods were used. The results showed that it is the most reasonable to use the regular wave model repeatedly for each frequency component of the irregular wave specuum with the root-mean-squared wave height for all the frequencies .

• 한국수자원학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국수자원학회 2005년도 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.1073-1077
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• 2005

In this study, wave pressure is calculated by using irregular waves in front of a breakwater. In the numerical model, the Reynolds equations are solved by a finite difference method and $k-{\varepsilon}$ model is employed for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. The results of two cases present that wave pressure change due to irregular wave similar to wave height of irregular wave. It is observed that wave pressure of Case 2 more bigger than wave pressure of Case 1 at the same position.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.11-20
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• 2003

본 논문에서는 규칙파 모델을 이용하여 유공케이슨 방파제로부터의 불규칙파의 반사를 계산하는 몇 가지 방법들을 검토한다. 첫 번째 방법은 불규칙파를 파고 및 주기가 각각 불규칙파의 제곱평균제곱근 파고 및 유의주기와 같은 규칙파로 근사하는 것이다. 두 번째는 불규칙파 스펙트럼의 각 주파수 성분에 대하여 규칙파 모델을 반복적으로 사용하는 것이다. 파의 주기는 성분파의 주파수에 따라 결정되며, 모든 주파수에 대해서 제곱평균제곱근 파고를 사용한다. 세 번째 방법은 두 번째 방법과 같으나, 각 성분파의 에너지에 해당하는 파고를 사용한다. 이전 연구자들의 실험 결과와 비교해 본 결과, 두 번째 방법이 가장 타당하며, 주파수 평균 반사율과 반사파 스펙트럼 모두 실험치와 양호한 일치를 보였다.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.168-177
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• 2020

Many coastal engineering designs utilize empirical formulas containing the Equivalent Deep-water Wave Height (EDWH), which is normally given a priori. However, no studies have explicitly discussed a method for determining the EDWH and the resulting design wave heights (DEWH) under irregular wave conditions. Unfortunately, it has been the case in many design practices that the EDWH is incorrectly estimated by dividing the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position with its corresponding shoaling coefficient of regular wave. The present study reexamines the relationship between the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position and its corresponding EDWH. Then, a new procedure is proposed to facilitate the correct estimation of EDWH. In this procedure, the EDWH and DEWH are determined differently according to the wave propagation model used to estimate the SWH. For this, Goda's original method for nonlinear irregular wave deformation is extended to produce values for linear shoaling. Finally, exemplary calculations are performed to assess the possible errors caused by a misuse of the wave height calculation procedure. The relative errors with respect to the correct values could exceed 20%, potentially leading to a significant under-design of coastal or harbor structures in some cases.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

현재 해안공학에 있어서 불규칙파랑을 표현하는 방법으로서 스펙트럼분석법과 파별해석법이 있다. 그 중,스펙트럼해석법은 수심이 깊고 입사파랑의 분산성이 큰 영역에, 파랑분석법은 수심이 얕고 비선형성이 강한 영역 및 석파와 같은 불연속현상을 취급할 경우에 각각적용 되어진다. 그러므로 현지 불규칙파랑장을 계통적으로 취급하기 위해서는 어느 수심영역에서 스펙트럼해석으로부터 파별분석으로 전의해야 할 것인가에 대한 연구가 필요하게 된다. 본 연구는 현지 불규칙파랑의 전파에 의한 변형을 계통적으로 취급할 수 있는 구체적인 방법을 확립하기 위해서 행한 일연의 연구로서 입사파랑의 방향분석이 없는 2차원 불규칙파에 대한 천수을 행하여 스펙트럼해석법의 적용한계, 스펙트럼에서 추정되어지는 파고, 주기의 결합확률분포, 불규칙파의 천수, 석파변형에 대한 파별분석법의 적용한계 등에 대해서 검토한 것이다.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.128-134
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• 2003

Numerical study on interactions of waves and currents has considerable practical interests in coastal and ocean engineering. And wave-current interactions strongly influence wave characteristics, current profiles, and forces on offshore structures. Presence of currents affects wave properties such as wave height and wave profiles. Furthermore, in case of the irregular waves, it is more complicated problem. The propose of present study, using the one-dimensional wave-current numerical model is based on the extended Boussinesq equation(Madsen, 1991) and an alternative form of wave-current dispersion relation(Mohiuddin, 1999, 2000) including wave action concept, is to simulate wave propagation in a current field including the irregular waves and discuss applicability of the model in a wave-current field.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.395-405
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• 1993

불규칙 파낭이 갖는 중요한 특성 중의 하나인 파군특성을 파낭 연이음개염과 에너지 이역 개념을 이용하여 해석하였다. 일정한 주기와 파고를 가지고 임의로 발생시킨 규칙파군에 적용하여 파군에 대한 기초적 특성을 파악한 후, 동해안에서 관측된 불규칙 파랑의 파군특성을 해석하였다. 불규칙 파낭의 파군특성을 정확히 해석하기 위해서는 기존의 스펙트럼 해석뿐만 아니라 파낭 연이음개념 및 에너지 이역개염을 함께 검토하여야 한다.

• 한국수자원학회논문집
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• 제46권5호
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

본 연구에서는 shelf 지형을 대상으로 불규칙파를 적용한 2차원 쇄파변형 수리실험과 Boussinesq형 방정식을 이용한 수치해석을 수행하였다. 유의파고, 유의파봉고, 유의파곡고, 평균수위 및 안정파고와 같은 쇄파특성을 수리실험자료로부터 분석하였고, 실험결과와 Boussinesq형 방정식의 해석결과를 비교하였으며, 두 결과는 비교적 잘 일치하였다. 일정수심상에서의 불규칙파의 쇄파후 안정파고는 수심의 약 0.56배로 분석되었다.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제20권1_2호
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• pp.197-208
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• 2006

This paper deals with the exact solution of surface gravity waves in an ocean with irregular bed topography. In order to obtain water surface elevation and run-up of infra-gravity waves when the bed is either wavy or exponential, closed form solutions are obtained. Numerical computations indicate that when solitary wave or sinusoidal wave conditions are applied at the boundary, water surface elevation attains near Gaussian profile.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.13-21
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• 2016

Parametric pitch instability of a Deep Draft Semi-submersible platform (DDS) is investigated in irregular waves. Parametric pitch is a form of parametric instability, which occurs when parameters of a system vary with time and the variation satisfies a certain condition. In previous studies, analyzing of parametric instability is mainly limited to regular waves, whereas the realistic sea conditions are irregular waves. Besides, parametric instability also occurs in irregular waves in some experiments. This study predicts parametric pitch of a Deep Draft Semi-submersible platform in irregular waves. Heave motion of DDS is simulated by wave spectrum and response amplitude operator (RAO). Then Hill equation for DDS pitch motion in irregular waves is derived based on linear-wave theory. By using Bubnov-Galerkin approach to solve Hill equation, the corresponding stability chart is obtained. The differences between regular-waves stability chart and irregular-waves stability chart are compared. Then the sensitivity of wave parameters on DDS parametric pitch in irregular waves is discussed. Based on the discussion, some suggestions for the DDS design are proposed to avoid parametric pitch by choosing appropriate parameters. The results indicate that it's important and necessary to predict DDS parametric pitch in irregular waves during design process.