• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.457-468
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• 2003

Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products\ulcorner In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.115-120
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• 2010

The formidable barrier property of the stratum cornemum and the high hydrophilicity of active ingredient make it difficult to permeate through the skin and reach to its site of action. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of chemical penetration enhancers on the skin permeation of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient, such as arbutin. The enhancing effects of N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) on the permeation of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient were evaluated by using Franz diffusion cell. The study indicated that NMP has considerable influence on the skin permeability. NMP was not only the most effective enhancer but also increased the skin permeability of arbutin approximately 1.3~1.5 fold compared with control without penetration enhancer. The lag time did not change with NMP, which suggested no effect of NMP on skin lipid fluidity. This suggest that arbutin co-permeated with NMP. The results indicate NMP is effective enhancer of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient in penetration, with potential applications for drug delivery system.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.81-88
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• 2006

Amino acid complex was made with the composition of amino acids quite similar to that of stratum corneum on the skin. In order to evaluate the efficacy of amino acid complex on the skin as an active cosmetic ingredient, we measured cytotoxicity. TIMP-1 expression, moisturizing effect and the amount of horny substance. In cytotoxicity assay, amino acid complex did not show any cytotoxicity. In moisturizing effect test using corneometer, it showed very good moisturizing effect. In TIMP-1 mRNA assay using RT-PCR, moo acid complex showed the increase of TIMP-1 expression, suggesting that amino acid complex have anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, amino acid complex may be useful as an active ingredient for anti-aging.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.186-195
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• 2021

In this study, when stem cell culture solution is used as a cosmetic ingredient, one of the most prominent problems is that the ingredients generally have low thermal stability. Therefore, in this study, in order to find out how the stem cell culture medium is heated or preserved at high temperature, the effect of various effects of stem cells on the various effects of the stem cells was investigated. Investigated. As a result of the experiment, the wound healing assay confirmed that the cell migration increased after 6 hours, and after 24 hours, it was confirmed that the cell mobility was increased and cell division was promoted, thereby being concentrated. As a result of investigating the amount of transdermal water loss by preparing a cosmetic product containing stem cell culture solution, it was confirmed that the culture solution addition group showed an improvement rate of 31% compared to the non-added group, thereby helping in skin wound recovery. As a result of this, it is considered that this point should be considered when the stem cell culture medium is used as an active ingredient in cosmetics in the future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.127-135
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• 2007

This study was to evaluate the efficiency of different solvent systems to extract active ingredients from different parts of medicinal plants used as oriental medicinal herb in the cosmetic industry. We tested efficacies related to the antioxidative effects and UV absorption of herbal extracts as complex of active ingredients, not each single ingredient. When extracting medicinal plant which is used effective medicine, we should consider the collecting conditions like collecting time, place, part and extracting conditions like solvent, temperature, time, and etc. Among them, extraction solvent and collecting part are very important factors for the efficacy. As increased interest in medicinal plants, more intensive studies on collecting conditions and extracting processes were needed for the developments in the herbal ingredient industry. We evaluated the efficiency of different solvent systems to extract active ingredients from different parts of plants (Terminalia chebula, Syzygium aromaticum, Paeonia lactiflora, Morus alba, Scutellaria baicalensis) widely used as medicine and food. As results, we found that proper condition can make better data and decrease the required quantity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.4 s.34
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• pp.51-55
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• 1999

Cosmetic mask is one of the traditional cosmetic product and is used to keep skin healthy and beautiful through moisturizing effect, cleansing effect and acceleration effect on microcirculation. There are several types of cosmetic mask such as peel-off type, tissue-off type, wash-off type and cotton sheet type immersed in cosmetic water. It is important for cosmetic formulators to develop an adequate type of cosmetic mask that meets the needs of the target consumers because each type of cosmetic mask has benefits and problems in its usage and efficacy. Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is widely used as an active ingredient of peel-off type cosmetic mask and the physical property of the PVA film changes with the usage of other ingredients. We studied the change of physical properties of the film containing PVA by formulating peel-off type cosmetic mask with the variation of humectants. Methylguceth-20 and glycereth-26 reduce the interaction between skin surface and PVA film without serious weakening of tensile strength and they can alleviate irritation. Glycerin, urea and betaine help PVA film soften and they also have excellent efficacy as humectants.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.51-55
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• 1999

Cosmetic mask is one of the traditional cosmetic product and is used to keep skin healthy and beautiful through moisturizing effect, cleansing effect and acceleration effect on microcirculation. There are several types of cosmetic mask such as peel-off type, tissue-off type, wash-off type and cotton sheet type immersed in cosmetic water. It is important for cosmetic formulators to develop an adequate type of cosmetic mask that meets the needs of the target consumers because each type of cosmetic mask has benefits and problems in its usage and efficacy. Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is widely used as an active ingredient of peel-off type cosmetic mask and the physical property of the PVA film changes with the usage of other ingredients. We studied the change of physical properties of the film containing PVA by formulating peel-off type cosmetic mask with the variation of humectants. Methylguceth-20 and glycereth-26 reduce the interaction between skin surface and PVA film without serious weakening of tensile strength and they can alleviate irritation. Glycerin, urea and betaine help PVA film soften and they also have excellent efficacy as humectants.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.275-280
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• 2007

In this study, we evaluate anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-inflammatory efficacies of Euphorbia jolkini extract for application as a cosmeceutical ingredient. We separated 5 fractions from Euphorbia jolkini extract (70 % MeOH) by MPLC. First and 5th fractions showed a supressive effect on Mn-SOD synthesis in the normal human fibroblasts. They inhibited melanogensis in the B16-F10 melanma cells. Furthermore, 1st and 5th fractions reduced the amounts of $IL-1{\alpha}$, IL-6, COX-II and total NO secreted from the normal human fibroblasts. These results suggest that Euphorbia jolkini extract may be used as an active ingredient in cosmetics.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.659-659
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• 2003

In this study, we have investigated the potent anti-aging effect of DA-3711, a cosmetic ingredient derived from artificial skin culture. The artificial skin was originally developed as a skin replacement for the treatment of chronic skin wounds. To produce DA-3711, neonatal human fibroblasts were seeded into biocompatible collagen/chitosan/glycosaminoglycan (GAG) scaffolds and cultured in Dulbecco's modified Eagle's medium (DMEM) supplemented with fetal bovine serum and nonessential amino acids. Analysis of the culture broth (DA-3711) showed that growth factors such as VEGF, TGF-$\beta$, KGF were present at significantly higher levels that in the culture broth of fibroblasts cultured in monolayer. The biological activity of DA-3711 was assessed by measuring in vitro cell proliferation and collagen synthesis of normal human fibroblasts. Fibroblasts treated with 10％ DA-3711 showed a 2-fold higher proliferation and 2 to 4-fold higher collagen synthesis than untreated cells. DA-3711 also exhibited anti-oxidative effects, since cells under peroxide-induced oxidative stress showed a 30％ higher viability in DA-3711-containing medium than in medium without DA-3711 addition. The results suggest that DA-3711 may have anti-aging effects by stimulating skin regeneration and protecting against oxidative stress.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.239-242
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• 2016

A novel Nicotinoyl fused peptide, Nicotinoyl-LVH, was synthesized by solid phase peptide synthesis method, purified, and tested in cultured skin cells. Nicotinoyl-LVH enhanced the expression level of collagen mRNA and its fragments in fibroblasts. These data show that this novel Nicotinoyl peptide is a promising biomaterial in the anti-aging functional cosmetic market.