The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

The Hallyu wave based on K-pop and K-culture has increased the global interest in Korean culture. Therefore, to satisfy consumer demand, there is an attempt to develop a variable fashion design using traditional Korean culture. Transformable fashion design causes changes in form and meaning according to various situations and needs and can induce active participation of consumers. Therefore, we intend to propose a transformable fashion design that is based on traditional Korean culture but appears in a new form and meets the needs of consumers of fashion design. Among Korean traditional culture, wrapping cloths, bojagi are practically used by ordinary people until now, and their shape and use change according to the user's needs. This study intends to derive expression characteristics by examining the expression tendencies of bojagi and to develop transformable fashion designs through the derived data. The purpose of this study is to make and propose transformable fashion designs in real life using the expression characteristics of Korean bojagi. As the method of this study, we first conducted a literature review. Through this, a case study of empirical production was conducted in parallel with the development and production of transformable fashion designs using bojagi. A total of three illustrations and six variable fashion designs were developed. Two of the six works are transformable fashion design that change through movement and expansion of the square shape, the prototype of the bojagi, and two works are modular, bringing changes in function through combination and separation. The work was produced as a multi-purpose transformable fashion design that can be used as clothes or a bag.

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

This study aims to analyze the macramé technique used in costume design based on the cases from 2011 to 2020, when the macramé technique became popular. The research data are the results of analyzing the materials, clothing items, and structural combination of macramé knots by season, year, and collection from 2011 S/S to 2020 F/W, focusing on the four major fashion collections New York, Paris, London, and Milan. Macramé appeared often in the S/S season, and in the 2019 and 2020 S/S seasons, macramé was identified as a keyword for fashion trends based on its frequent usage. Overhand knots were used the most for the types of macramé knots used in costumes, and overhand knots were also used the most in the S/S season and in the New York, Paris, and Milan collections. Rope was the most frequently used material for macramé knots, and it was confirmed that it appeared frequently in 2011 and 2019, and ropes were also used often in the London, Milan, and Paris collections. One-piece appeared the most in the S/S season and F/W season as costume items. In addition, the costumes used as layers in the S/S season appeared most often, and in 2019 and 2020, the layered combination appeared most frequently in London and New York collections. It is judged that macramé appears repeatedly in the S/S season depending on the type of knot and is used as a layered look, making it a decorative element rather than a practical element. This study is expected to help develop modern fashion design by drawing attention to the value of the macramé technique expressed as handcrafted work.

The online fashion market in the 21st century has shown rapid growth. Against this backdrop, using consumer activity data to provide customized customer services has emerged as a viable business model that draws attention. Algorithm-based personalized recommendation services are a good example. But their application in fashion products has clear limitations. It is not easy to identify consumers' perceptions of the attributes of fashion, which are various, hard to define, and very sensitive to trends. So there is a need to compile data on consumers' underlying awareness and to carry out defined research to increase the utilization of such services in the fashion industry and further engage consumers. This research aims to classify the attributes and types of fashion products and to identify consumers' perceptions of a given situation where a recommendation service is offered. To find out consumers' perceptions of and satisfaction with recommendation services, an online and mobile survey was conducted on women in their 20s and 30s, a group that uses recommendation services frequently. A total of 455 responses were used for analysis. SPSS 28.0 was used, combined with Conjoint Analysis and multiple regression, to analyze data. The study results could provide insights into a better understanding of recommendation services and be used as basic data for companies to identify consumers' preferences and draw up a detailed strategy for market segmentation.

Based on the method of marking the size of children's wear suggested by Korean Agency for Technology and Standards, this study classified the heights of school-aged girls by 10cm. The purpose of this study is to provide foundational material by analyzing and comparing the characteristics of torso types. The author analyzed the height section of 130 to 139.9cm, which the majority of subjects fell into, and concerning the method of research, this study statistically analyzed body sizes and calculated items related to 162 persons' torso types out of the 6th Korean Body Size Data. According to the results, eight factors were extracted, and the total explanatory variate of all the factors was found to be 81.93%. According to the results of cluster analysis with it as an independent variable, three types were drawn. Type 1 (41.4%) was found to be the thickest in the torso and round and severely curved in the sectional form of the circumference item. RegardingType 2 (25.9%), the horizontal size of the torso is similar to that of Type 1: the upper body is long, and the sectional form of the circumference item is oval-shaped. Regarding Type 3 (32.7%), mean values are similar to those of Type 2 overall: the upper body is short, and the body is the most upright. In conclusion, according to the results of analyzing torso types, the types and average values indicate significant differences in the height section of 130~139.9cm. This implies that when making ready-made clothes, it is necessary to come up with the sizes of more detailed items in relation with height. It is expected that the findings of this study will be utilized as basic data when children's wear companies develop prototypes and use grading variances according to the variations of size.

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.

The purpose of this study is to examine various types and characteristics of masks and to consider what meanings they have in the recent fashion world. To this end, this study attempts to reflect on the internal meaning of masks exhibited in fashion designers' collections rather than functional meanings. It has an implication; in that it tries to help understand the expressive needs for variety and freshness pursued by modern fashion and use the unique design development to understand the internal meanings of masks. It, therefore, examines the existing domestic and foreign literature and data about masks from a theoretical perspective, and also attempts to draw findings from the data of fashion collections which have been held since the 2000s, as well as from literature research based on books about fashion and various other media. The meanings of masks in the field of fashion are as follows: First, they express identity, by criticizing the couture fashion, through the fashion. Second, they present a new concept of body, showing an illogical and ambiguous identity in which both feminine and masculine images coexist. Third, they are media externally communicating insights about human beings' inner world, through which various messages are transferred to modern people who are attached to external appearances, and the identities possessed by designers are revealed by the masks. Fourth, they ask about a boundary between gender and sexuality, as a means to make us concentrate on the important social issue, while expressing various and new identities, like the hybrid identity. In other words, they can be found to be used as effective media in communicating fashion massages intended by fashion experimental and creative designers.